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Agrasen Ki Baoli, Delhi BY SUSAN JOHNSON-ROEHR

Step-wells (baoli) have been used for centuries in India, providing water and a place to rest during

summer. Though most have been filled in and replaced with more modern water management practices,

a few beautiful examples remain. Of these, one of the most accessible is Agrasen ki Baoli in Connaught

Place, Delhi.

Stepwells (baoli) have been used for centuries in the arid regions of India to access water stored in

natural aquifers. As far back as the sixth century A.D., villagers have dug deep trenches to reach the

water table, freeing them from dependence on seasonal rains. Masons lined the trenches with

stabilizing stones, and introduced flights of stairs down the steep slopes to the water.

At one time, thousands of these stepwells dotted the landscape of northern India, offering not only a

means of obtaining fresh water for drinking and cooking, but also a place to escape the burning desert

heat. Although some wells remained simple in design, with a single flight of steps leading to the exposed

aquifer, many were developed with spaces used for as temples or for daily living.

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Unfortunately, almost all step-wells were filled in during the nineteenth and early twentieth century as

part of colonial water management plans that relied on pipes and taps. The few that are left are mostly

in the arid regions of Gujarat and Rajasthan. However, a few fine examples of single-flight step-wells still

remain in Delhi. The easiest of these to visit is the ASI-preserved Agrasen ki Baoli in Hailey Road,

located off a street running between the Malta Embassy and Pavilion Suites in New Delhi.

Architecture of the Baoli The construction of Agrasen ki Baoli is commonly attributed to the pre-Lodhi (c. 14th century) Raja

Agrasen, ruler of the Agrawal community. It is a relatively simple structure, consisting of single flight of

103 steps that culminate in a now dry water tank. The stone walls of the well are stark yet beautiful,

forming a 60 x 15 meter rectangle made up of a series of superimposed arcades.

Walkways interrupt the walls at three levels, allowing the visitor to explore various alcoves and rooms

that once would have been used as sites for retreat or puja during the summer months. Today, the

more hazardous of these rooms are secured with gates, and of course, you must avoid the pigeons who

claim them as their own private roosts.

A Pleasant Stop The ASI rehabilitated Agrasen ki Baoli as recently as 2002,

at which point fresh water appeared in the lower tank,

but with the continued depletion of New Delhi water

sources, it is probably too much to hope for water to flow

naturally into this well ever again.

Still, because the stairs descend well below ground, the

air at the bottom of the well remains much cooler than

that at surface. As you reach the bottom of the stairs,

listen carefully—underneath the pigeon calls, you will also

hear the squeaky chatter of bats, who have taken up

residence in the lofty spaces of the dry tank.

Even though Agrasen ki Baoli is quite close to some of the busiest tourist areas of New Delhi—the walk

from the well up KG Marg to Connaught Place takes only five minutes—this site is virtually deserted,

making it a pleasant stop for anyone seeking an escape from the noise and heat of Delhi in the summer

time. Take a cloth on which to sit (remember the pigeons), and feel free to descend the stairs to escape

the young couples skipping school to cuddle and gossip.

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The Mosque at the Baoli While you are at the baoli, be sure and explore the ruins of

the mosque at the southwest end of the well. Not much is

known about this structure, but it was probably built

within the century following the construction the well.

Notice the pillars comprised of four uprights, and the

incredibly heavy stone barrel vault that functions as the

roof.