TELE01Z02ES - V1

a popular shore excursion for cruise passengers. Our flexible small-ship itinerary allows us the luxury of a full and comprehensive visit, which includes a decent hike to the fossil cliffs, where the flamboyant Signor B once quarried his limestone.

Our itinerary had includedthe glorious Tasmanian Wilderness World Heritage Area of Port Davey and Bathurst Harbour in Tasmania’s southwest, but weather conditions thwarted us. At just 35m, Coral Expeditions I (formerly Coral Princess I) is one of the smaller vessels in the world’s expedition fleet. The

ocean-going catamaran is perfectly at home in its usual haunts on the Great Barrier Reef or Kimberley, but a 100km transit exposed to 4m seas and 40km/h winds was deemed too uncomfortable.

“I could get us there and backjust fine,” Captain Nathan told the guests at morning tea, “but you would curse me every minute of the journey.” We believe him. We’d already had a taste of Tasmania’s mercurial weather en route to Adventure Bay on Bruny Island where explorers Tasman, Bligh, Cook, Flinders, Furneaux and Bruni D’Entrecasteaux all took refuge. Most of them left monuments of

A corner of historyA cruise around the islands and waterways of Tasmania is a taste of what our intrepid early mariners experienced, writes Rod Eime

A S THE the ship approached the shore,coloured fireworks and

rockets lit up the sky and the whole village “looked like a scene in fairyland, for from the water’s edge, an avenue formed of brilliant Chinese lanterns led up to the Signor’s residence”. If nothing else, Signor Angelo Giulio Diego Bernacchi (aka His Most Amiable Majesty) knew how to throw a party. His guests included Tasmanian members of parliament and the press on a junket to the little settlement called immodestly, San Diego.

The year was 1886 and KingDiego was presiding over his little fiefdom built on the former penal colony of Maria Island. The entrepreneur quickly seduced his guests with lavish hospitality and launched The Maria Island Co to begin enterprises in wine, fruit, livestock, silk and cement. Floated in 1887 with a capital of £250,000, it was, however, all over by 1892, with the crestfallen maestro heading back to London.

Today, we arrive aboard therecently refreshed, 50-passenger Coral Expeditions I as part of our week-long exploration of the islands and waterways in Tasmania’s southeast corner. As we stroll across the empty paddocks, there is no trace of Bernacchi’s 20ha of premium vineyards; instead the island is a protected nature reserve and a UNESCO-listed site thanks to the convict history, which peaked in 1846 when almost 500 prisoners were on Maria Island. His restored house, now a delightful overnight visitor option, and forlorn cement silos stand in stark memorial of his spectacular failure.

Named Maria’s Eylandt byAbel Tasman after his sponsor’s wife, Maria Island is accessed only by sea or light plane, making the delightful little land mass a few kilometres off Tasmania’s lower eastern shore

TASMANIA12 ESCAPE SUNDAY FEBRUARY 14 2016 ESCAPE.COM.AU

V1 - TELE01Z01ES

ocean-going catamaran is perfectly at home in its usual haunts on the Great Barrier Reef or Kimberley, but a 100km transit exposed to 4m seas and 40km/h winds was deemed too uncomfortable.

“I could get us there and backjust fine,” Captain Nathan told the guests at morning tea, “but you would curse me every minute of the journey.” We believe him. We’d already had a taste of Tasmania’s mercurial weather en route to Adventure Bay on Bruny Island where explorers Tasman, Bligh, Cook, Flinders, Furneaux and Bruni D’Entrecasteaux all took refuge. Most of them left monuments of

TASMANIACoral Expeditions’ week-long itinerary in southern Tasmania aboard Coral Expeditions I resumes this month with plans to repeat the season in November.

DOING THERECruise fares begin at $3990 for seven nights and include all meals and excursions.See coralexpeditions.com or Ph 1800 079 545

MOREdiscovertasmania.com.au

ESCAPE ROUTE

some sort. Cook engraved a tree while Bligh and the French planted trees and vegetables.

All of these exploits are recalled in a tiny but well-kept museum in Adventure Bay, built in 1954 from local convict bricks. The Bligh Museum of Pacific Exploration has collected an impressive trove of memorabilia that includes clippings and documents as well as maritime mementos.

Before we continue our quest, expedition leader Dennis takes advantage of the weather window and leads us on an energetic hike to the summit of Fluted Cape to take in the expansive view over Penguin

Island and the bay. Tasmanian Parks ranger Oliver is along with us the entire journey and comes into his own at moments like this, pointing out little critters and special plants.

Back on board, chef Travisand his galley team have contrived another masterful meal. Lunches are typically hot buffet with emphasis on local seafood, meat and salad items. Cakes and pastries are on offer, but the piles of fresh fruit – melon, berries and citrus — are quickly devoured.

Although it’s been several years since my last voyage on a Coral Expeditions vessel, it’s clear the culinary offerings

PIONEER TRAIL: (clockwise from main) The outlook towards Wineglass Bay in Freycinet National Park; a white-bellied sea eagle; Coral Expeditions I against the backdrop of dramatic cliffs on Maria Island; and the Wooden Boat Centre, Franklin. Pictures: Peter Billingham, Mike Sugden, Rod Eime

have made a quantum leap. An expanded wine list, skewed to include local pinot noir and riesling, complement Travis’s perfectly prepared and plated fish and meat dishes.

Across the D’EntrecasteauxChannel on the mainland is Recherche Bay, named after the esteemed chevalier’s ship and close to the most extreme southerly point of Tasmania. Here we meet the vivacious Pauline Treillard, a Parisian cheese and winemaker at the Grandvewe sheep farm where her delicious fromage and wines are produced.

In lieu of our venture to PortDavey, a exploration of the Huon River is artfully devised to fill the gap in the program. At the quirky village of Franklin is the Wooden Boat Centre where the secret art of timber boat building is kept alive through courses in woodcraft and carpentry. Our guide, Graham Rankin, introduces each project like a coddled child. In fact, if we wanted to take home a gorgeous handmade huon pine dinghy, a mere $9450 would secure it. Oars are extra.

The balance of our itineraryincludes mandatory visits to historic Port Arthur and spectacular Wineglass Bay, all easily achieved by little Coral Expeditions I.

As the late Signor Bernacchiwould attest, enterprises in Tasmania require preparation and perseverance and while Coral Expeditions’ brochure confidently includes Port Davey in the voyage, intending guests should be prepared to accept alterations to the schedule if conditions dictate. As decreed by the ebullient Italian and numerous adventurers before him, Tasmania is indeed an “Eden of the South” possessing great scenic and natural wonders. Just be sure to pack a beanie and scarf in case.

The writer travelled as a guest of Coral Expeditions.

12 ESCAPE SUNDAY FEBRUARY 14 2016 ESCAPE.COM.AU ESCAPE.COM.AU SUNDAY FEBRUARY 14 2016 ESCAPE 13

*All prices are per person in Australian dollars based on twin occupancy and inclusive of all taxes and fees (which are subject to change) and onboard gratuities (tips). ~Save

up to 45% is applicable to Select Celebrity Constellation, Equinox and Reflection Europe Sailings departing between 15 April 2016 to 2 November 2016 only. Savings amounts and Was/Now Prices are based on lowest available fare in the listed categories at time of going to print (10 February 2016) against the lowest available standard Fare in the same category as of October 31st 2015. #Oceanview to Balcony Upgrade is available on Select Celebrity Equinox and Reflection Europe Sailings departing Between 25 April 2016 – 15 Oct 2016. Sailings must start and end in a European port to be considered a European sailing. †$25 deposits are applicable to All Celebrity Cruises 2016 sailings outside of final payment excluding Celebrity Xpedition. This offer will not combine with Cruise Tours, Cel Explorations or City Stays and is not applicable to bookings made in a Suite Class Stateroom. ‡Celebrity eXtra Sale offer is valid between 14 February 2016 to 20 February 2016 and is applicable to new individual bookings created on Celebrity Solstice Sailings Departing between 8 October 2016 – 13 April 2017 and to Celebrity Europe Sailings departing between 15 April 2016 to 2 November 2016 only, sailings must start and end in a European port to be considered a Europe Sailing. Offer provides a bonus onboard credit tiered by Stateroom Category – US$50 Interior & Oceanview, US$100 Balcony, Concierge and Aqua and US$300 for suites. Offer is combinable with standard pricing and Celebrity Cruises Go Big Better Best promotions only. ^Two Free Perks Bookings must be made in an Oceanview stateroom or higher and select Celebrity Cruises “Go Big, Better, Best” promotion which applies to most Celebrity Cruises sailings of 4 nights or longer and excludes Interior staterooms. ‘Go Better for free’ Two FREE perks can be booked between 4 January – 28 February 2016 on Oceanview categories or higher on sailings departing between 1 April 2016 – 29 April 2017. Offer excludes Transatlantic, Transpacific and Repositioning sailings and all sailings on Celebrity Xpedition. Other exclusions and terms and conditions apply. For a full version of the Terms and Conditions please see www.celebritycruises.com.au. Offers and prices are subject to change without notice, are capacity controlled and may be removed if a booking is cancelled and reinstated at any time after deposit payment. Any other changes made to the booking may result in the forfeit of the promotion. All bookings must meet the terms and conditions of the promotions in order to qualify. Passengers are bound by the terms and conditions in the Celebrity Cruises Worldwide Brochure 2015-2016. Celebrity cruises reserves the right to correct any errors, inaccuracies or omissions and to change or update fares, fees and surcharges at any time without prior notice. ABN 541 5026 3086. J10312_140216_SST

1 8 0 0 7 5 4 5 0 0 | V I S I T Y O U R T R A V E L A G E N T | C E L E B R I T Y C R U I S E S . C O M . A U

RomeNaples

Messina

Valletta

Ajaccio

Florence

Barcelona

Palma De Mallorca

I TA LY

M A LTA

S P A I NI TA LY

G R E E C ET U R K E Y

Naples

AthensMykonos

Rome

SantoriniChania

BodrumEphesus

GREECE, TURKEY & ITALY CRUISEOceanview was $3629* now $2389*

Balcony was $3769* now $2389*

Celebrity Refl ectionDEP 8 AUGUST 2016

11 NIGHTS

WESTERN MED CRUISEOceanview was $3219* now $2959*

Balcony was $3339* now $2959*

Celebrity EquinoxDEP 15 OCTOBER 2016

10 NIGHTS

Mykonos

M A LTA

I TA LY

T U R K E YG R E E C E

Valletta

Catania

NaplesRome Istanbul

GREECE & ITALY CRUISEOceanview was $2009* now $1109*

Balcony was $2149* now $1109*

Celebrity EquinoxDEP 18 JUNE 2016

7 NIGHTS

I TA LY

G R E E C E T U R K E Y

Naples

AthensMykonos

Rome

SantoriniRhodes

Messina Ephesus

ITALY & GREEK ISLES CRUISEOceanview was $3472* now $2279*

Balcony was $3466* now $2279*

Celebrity Refl ectionDEP 17 JUNE 2016

10 NIGHTS

U N L I M I T E DI N T E R N E T

P R E P A I DG R A T U I T I E S

C L A S S I C B E V E R A G EP A C K A G E

U S $ 1 5 0 O N B O A R DC R E D I TP I C K

2 F R E E P E R K S ^

H e r e yo u w i l l f a l l i n l o ve a l l o ve r a g a i n

7 DAY VALENTINE’S SALESAVE UP TO 45%~

+ ENJOY A FREE BALCONY UPGRADE#

+ UP TO US$100 ONBOARD CREDIT‡

+ $25 DEPOSITS† + PICK TWO FREE PERKS^