yatra to kochi
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a short trip to Kochi, the historical city and Port Cochin. what i saw there in two three days stay.TRANSCRIPT

Yatra to Kochi, Kerala, India-
A Travelogue Trip to Kochi, Kerala, India
A chance visit to historical city of Kerala, India, Now Kochi, once that was famous Port city of Cochin, vied for by European powers-Portuguese and Dutch then landed in hands of British. This has impacted the city, culture, Architecture, Psyche, and thinking process
By Gaurang Katyayan Mishra @kamlesm
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When I came to know that I have to go to Kochi to attend a workshop, I was
very excited. Since childhood, I have heard a lot about Cochin. It was INS
Cochin which I heard first that too from my father. He was in Indian Navy.
It was a historical place. The Portuguese and Dutch people landed here
centuries ago i.e. about 14th century. Portuguese had occupied it for about
160 years. In 1683 the Dutch caught this area and ruled for 112 years, later
it became a British colony. That was the time all the colonial powers were
eyeing for our India. They were all dreaming of looting immense wealth. They
had heard about this land through travellers and thought to occupy it and
make it their slave. Thus European countries wanted to become wealthy just
by looting this land. Now they are wealthy countries, if I may say so, they
have become so after taking away wealth of our countries- those who were
their colonies.
I mean it was a historical PORT CITY, since people landed here coming by
sea route. The name lingered. When we went on LTC tour in 1976 that time
we could not see much of that part of Keral.
I searched in google. I came to know there are so many words. Kochi,
Cochin. Kozhikode etc., I was confused, as to which Airport I should select
for ticket? since the name of my destination was Kochi, I took ticket for
Kochi. In kochi itself there were two airports, thanx to the google earth.
Other was naval area. Why they renamed it as Kochi instead of Cochin?
On reaching I tried to get the feel of air of Kochi. It was a busy city, bustling
with lot of activities. It is growing with high pace. Infrastructural projects are
on rise. The ride from airport to the city is bit long, but adventurous, as I
felt. So much greenery around, but it was being occupied by concrete. Few
new roads and high rise buildings are coming up. So it was different from
image of a historical
city, it is now a
commercial city. I
saw few
aquaculture fields-
where prawns,
shrimps are
cultured(?). These
were low lying fields
lined by high mud
bunds & symbol of
Keral-coconut trees
all around the field.
At airport I saw lots
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of newly wedded couples disembarking from many private airlines. Thus it is
becoming as a tourist spot also, mostly as a honeymoon spot. In my flight
few fellow passengers were wearing black cloths. Small kids were also there.
Later I learnt that they were visiting Sabarimala. That means if I am correct
it is en-route to a pilgrimage.
We were put in Abad hotel. Abad means “well settled”. Road seemed busy
during evening & night. It has cinema halls, eatery, many shops- garments,
utility, electronics, utensils, medicines
and most prominently jewellery shops.
Towards one end there was an Ayurveda
clinic, I think of kotakal warrior
connection??.
I was desperate to see the sea as my
father told about his navy days. I was
thinking to see palaces, temples or fort
or any such historical thing. Which, I
came to know through reading books.
Walking in street in evening I found
these were busy. We reached at a place
from where many boats were leaving for
various destinations. I had read that
Keral is country of backwater, thus I
could easily guess people traveling
through sea route also. This picture
of a board tells distances of various
places from that jetty. At first I
could not believe that people may
be visiting to such far off places as
Kolam. But his board tells that it
was 155 Km from Kochi Or
Astamudi which was 147 Km and
people may be visiting?
Since it was a workshop organised
by a Ministry. People from all over
country came to attend workshop.
A boat was there to carry whole
team. We boarded the boat.
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While walking at jetty, I got sight of a tall
statue. It looked very much pleasing to me.
I thought this as a pious soul, may be the
Mother Mary. Only that name I knew?. It
looks as if saying “keep marching ahead
and do your duty”. I clicked few photos of
this tall statue. The famous words “Ekla
chalo” came to mind. See how the Bengali
words came to mind while I was in Keral.
At jetty there was a big shopping complex.
On one side was this jetty and other side
was a busy road. By now I came to know
that city has quite a deep influence of
Christianity. Almost on every road you can
find either church like signs, or structures,
or some church affiliated school or hospitals
etc. another influence is that people speak English. Keral is one of the state
having highest literacy rates in country.
Signs of modernity were evident through these high rise buildings. I could
see lot of experimentation also in architecture. I have observed that in cities
people do not get influenced by
religious aspects while choosing a
flat in multi-storeyed buildings.
See that building in pic here have
houses in inclined slope. They
might be projecting these
apartments as having sun light or
separate terrace. On that road
there were many multi-storeyed
buildings. I had always dreamt of
sleeping in terrace under open
sky… moonlight….dreams
always.
With so many people living there
then there must be some
attraction in it? As our boat
started moving more symbols of
developments came in sight.
There was this huge flyover. It
takes people from one shore to
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another. There were many such
bridges at multilevel.
A succesfull Port should have good
connectivity. That can be achieved
through big roads, for cargo
movement.
When boat reached further little
inside the sea I saw some resort
like structures along the shore.
Since it is a Port City it
has floating
population, either for
commercial activity or
tourist. The green and
big shoreline offers
great opportunity for
such tourism related
endeavours. Kochi is
making full use of its
potential.
But we cannot say full,
but yes it is bubbling
with such activities, as
I saw. With global exposure it is
now becoming a global hub of
activities. Recently it was
famous for a controversy on Art
activist related activity (Biennale
of arts).
Many Boats full of people
started emerging on both sides
of sea creek. The guide
accompanying our team pointed
towards a large structure having
several high cranes, stacked
containers, few ships being
loaded with those containers
and few were being unloaded,
and He said that this is the largest container port in India? Our boat
travelled past that ship container port. On the other side at far end many
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ships were there. The boat slightly took a turn towards left and at that point
I could see one of the largest Naval
ship. It was there for repairs. In that
area many big or small ships were
sailing. Many of them were of Navy,
coast guard etc.
On One boat LOTS Bridge was written
on the body. Was it for making bridge
across sea channel.
Suddenly on the right
side I saw a beautiful
boat. That was truly a
boat. It must be a tourist
boat. It was in kind of round shape. It had eco-friendly material. Bamboo
thatched mats. It was a fine example of why tourists are attracted to Kerala.
They always dream to have a boat ride in the back water.
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On the way there were other boats in the sea, shipping, fishing & tourist?
We travelled towards a place called the Mattanchery. This word sounded like
mutton to me. The place is famous in history of Keral. The Dutch connection
was evident.
When the boat enters a canal,
on left side I saw naval ships
lining on the port side and on
the right side there were many
houses. Each of these building
was with architecture of old
type. I guessed may be that is
influence of Dutch. Designs of
old type of inclined and sloping
roofs are there. This indicates
the heavy rains in that area.
We reached the jetty of Mattancherry. Few
steps ahead just in front was a gate. This
was gate of that very historical place for
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which it is famous, the mattanchery palace. Most interesting story behind it
is that it was build by Dutch.
This branch of royals had
conection to the Travancore
royal palace.
When I reached the palace
gate I found this board stating
that it is a archeological
museum. Most sad part was
that camera was not allowed
inside it.
Much of the thrill was lost since I was
dreaming to click lots of pictures from
inside of palace. As palace life always is
of interest to me.
Inside the palace there were
photographs of royal family. No one can
imagine the way royal ladies
lived or dressed till you see
yourself. There were large
mural paintings in palace
and I think these are best
example of Indian art
heritage. Few exhibits were
also there, a palanquin was
there. Large painting of
Martand Varma or other
royal kings are displayed. I
was surprised to see the
Coronation hall. It was so narrow that I thought how a crowd of people
could stand in it. I was sweating, it was so hot inside. Once you are inside
the palace you loose the time and space, you become a part of palace and I
started imagining living in that era? Sitting in front of window of palace,
looking out in the garden, how one could have felt in past centuries?
Palace with its beautifull murals, aura, design kindles lots of imagination in
me
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I found this façade above the gate very interesting. Was it really built by
Dutch? The GajLakshmi
adorns the gate. This
shows how religious
practice and belief were
followed all throughout
India? The Gaj Lakshmi
is known to everyone
from Jammu to
Kanyakumari and from
Assam to Gujrat. The
intricate wood carving is
very beautifully done. It
must have required great
patience to make such
carving.
There is a courtyard around the palace that houses a shiv temple. It is
surprising to note that on other side of the wall of palace there is a Jew
synagogue in the famous jew street. The royal highness had given the land
to Jews to build synagogue.
After coming out of the
palace on the right
hand side from the
gate leads a road to
main bazar. It is a
total commercial
street. Everything is
now being sold on this
street, From
Handicraft to stone
sculptors.
Eatery is also there, few I found selling the pickles, organic bottled ones.
One restaurant was unique, I tried to see and found that it was eating
places but from the street it looked like a museum where all the antique
pieces of arts were exhibited.
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There was a big boat, big tub, big horse, big elephant and big human
sculptors. I could not afford any of such works, so I could not gather
strength to
step inside
that shop.
I thought
them as out
of bound for
me.
I tried to
restrain
myself-
Swamaryada
I wanted to memorise whatever my eyes were catching glimpses of. All
that was so precious, I felt, as if my touch will make it dirty. My eyes were
amazed with this grand show of wealth.
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At the end of this
bazar is Jew Street,
which is the earliest
settlement of Jews in
India. Here lived Jew
families who settled
here centuries ago in
1500AD. But few years
back they migrated to
other parts of world.
Few even returned to
their land-Israel. I
heard One old lady
still lived there. I was
eager to see her. But
when I reached this street, it was already noontime. At this house two
people a woman and a man stopped me, and told she is taking rest. Thus
my dream to meet her was shattered. I saw the room and found few
embroidered cloths were decorated here and there. It was sad that whole of
Jew street is devoid of Jew families. In All houses I saw Non-Jew people.
Either they must have purchased or taken on hire?? But strangely, Whole
Street still sells the embroidery works. At the end of street one Synagogue is
there that was built in 1567? Raja gave the land. The wall is common to the
palace, temple. Camera and shoes are not allowed inside. So I could not
click photos. I went there as an Indian ( read as so called a Hindu). It was so
mystic inside. In one room several photos, items are on display. Gift of
royalties, religious art facts, script I could not read. There were few pardesi
people managing the place, this is also referred to as Pardesi synagogue.
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Few pics I have taken On the way from Mattanchery to Fort Kochi..
Such big and majestic
buildings lined the
banks of that sea creek.
While our boat travelled I
could see lots of such old
buildings, guessed that
all those might have
been built during those
Portuguese, Dutch rule.
Through the creek or
canal our boat returned back and on the way again I met with few people
fishing on their log boats. They just looked like a big log of tree but boys
were riding on it as if they are expert rider on horse.
We disembarked on a place from there we walked further. That was the way
to Fort Kochi. I was imagining about a fort as we see in Rajasthan.
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I found this display. This was Vasco-da Gama Square. It kindled imagination. I
was standing on the ground
where once Vasco-da-Gama
landed in India. Lived here and
was buried here.
St Francis Xavier reached
Kochi in 1530 and introduced
Christian mission. Is it same
who is referred in Goa also? I
thought?
St Francis Church housing the TOMB of
VASCO DA GAMA.
Vasco da Gama was not the first, Admiral
Cabral arrived in 1500. During the fights
with Zamorin of Calicut Portuguese then
sent D Gama. He fought and took over
the control in 1503 and Since then
Portuguese ruled.
Later I think his remains were taken
away to his homeland in 1539? As the
guide told.
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Life at the beach was full of colors. I just felt that whole beach is dependent
on this fishing. I saw
huge nets, boats,
drying fish, fishermen
everywhere.
I still have doubt why
these nets are called
Chinese nets? Why
they are not Indian?
Now days it has
become fashion to call
everything as un-
Indian. As if we in
India had nothing
before the advent of
the Europeans? All
wrong things are
being propagated. I
had an argument with
the guide. He pointed
towards a fan of cloth
hanging in ceiling and
said these were
brought by
Portuguese. I said you
are wrong, even such
type of fans were
hanging in my
grandfather’s house
in Hardoi, UP. So do
you think is it due to
Dutch/Portuguese
that he had these type
of fans in UP?
Here is what I got from wiki??
King Unni Goda Varma Tirumulpadu(Trimumpara Raja) warmly welcomed Pedro Álvares Cabral on 24 December 1500 and negotiated a treaty of alliance between
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Portugal and the Cochin kingdom, directed against the Zamorin of Calicut. Goda means the eldest son of Rani thus this word is added in name. Since virtually the cochin at that time was under control of Zamorin of Calicut and they wanted to get free from his control. Cochin became a long-time Portuguese protectorate (1503–1663) providing assistance against native overlords. After the Portuguese, the Dutch East India Company(1663–1795) followed by the English East India Company (1795–1858, confirmed on 6 May 1809), protected the Cochin state.
Cochin was probably first kingdom to sign any treaty with any European power. Oldest or the first fort built by Portuguese was at Fort Kochi may be 1503. First it was built by wood later it was made permanent with stone etc. Royal King provided all the help such as material and men. Then somehow after approx. 160 years of Portuguese rule few members of Cochin family got help from Dutch. Dutch got hold of the fort Kochi and ruled till the British came. There were times when it was attacked by Mysore, Hyder Ali etc also. Portuguese traded spices from this Port City. Earlier a city kodungalur was famous as port city but there was no mention of Kochi. A flood in 1341 destroyed Koungalore and nearby city Kochi got into prominence. Ma Huan Chinese travelor mentioned it and in 1440 an Italian travelor Nicolo Da Conti came here and mentioned it or that means first time anywhere Kochi was found written? Those times it was famous Port city for International trade with Chinese, Yavanas (Roman & Greeks), Arabs, Jews. Thus for centuries it traded spices etc?
People and people everywhere on the beach at FORT KOCHI, busy with fishing activity.
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Fishermen or rather fisher women had put few stalls for selling the fishes on Fort Kochi
Beach.
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See these majestic fishing nets. Could not resist clicking
At Fort Kochi there was usual gathering of people as we find at any tourist
place in India.
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There are few shops of ice creams, fast food, soft drinks, tea. But most
amazing thing I found that street vendors selling handicraft items like
jewellery, few bags, embroidery items etc similar to what we find on the
Janpath at New Delhi. Those women wearing the dress have Gujrati-
Rajasthani motifs. Many were there selling the beads, cloths etc on the road
side. I was surprised to see those women there at Fort Kochi, so cut off place
but full of tourists. Surprised with the imagination as what those women
selling crafts of Saurastra at Fort Kochi as I seen many doing at Janpath
New Delhi? I have no answer to this interesting aspect of Tourism related
economic activity. And why a tourist at Fort Kochi will be interested to buy a
craft of Saurastra??
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Everything is written here, so needless to say anything now

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It was a jetty from where
all boats leave and people
boarded It was on the way
between mattan chery and
fort kochi. And may be
some other routes also, as
this was very busy jetty.
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Many things are left,
which I wanted to write. But since time is less and I have no patience now.
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On the street of ABaD
hotel, in front of a
shop I saw this pond.
I think it was some
cloth shop? they had
decorated the front
portion of shop with
most creative design.
It was in shape of Sea
Shell and had
beautifull fishes. I
thought how they are
protected in night?
There was a guard
outside
Kochi is a famous and
busy buiseness HUB.
Enjoy your visit to
Kochi. I bought a pack
of Banana chips from
Airport. I could have
bought it from the street
behind the Hotel but
resisted. However at
Airport I thought to buy
as a souvenir
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