GARDE MANGERgardemangerthe art and craft of the cold kitchenthe culinary institute of americafourth editionJOHN WILEY & SONS, INC.The Culinary Institute of AmericaPRESIDENTDr. Tim Ryan 77, CMC, AACMark Erickson 77, CMCSusan CussenVICE-PRESIDENT, DEAN OF CULINARY EDUCATIONSENIOR DIRECTOR, EDUCATIONAL ENTERPRISESDIRECTOR OF PUBLISHINGNathalie Fischer Lisa Lahey 00EDITORIAL PROJECT MANAGER Margaret Wheeler 00EDITORIAL ASSISTANTS Shelly Malgee 08 Erin Jeanne McDowell 08EDITORIAL PROJECT MANAGERFaculty TeamChef Mark Ainsworth 86, PC III, CEC, CHEChef Clemens Averbeck, CEC, CHEChef Brad Barnes 87, CMC, CCA, AACChef Corky Clark 71, CCE, CWE, CHEChef Gerard Coyac, CHEChef John DeShetler 68, PC II, CCC, CHEChef Michael Garnero, CHEChef Lynne Gigliotti 88, CHEChef Jim HeywoodChef Tom Kief 78, CHEChef John Kowalski 77, CHEChef Pierre LeBlanc, CHEChef Hubert Martini, CEC, CCE, AACChef Bruce Mattel 80, CHEChef Michael Pardus 81, CHEChef Kathy Polenz 73, CHEChef Henry RappChef Charles RascollChef John Reilly 88, CCC, CHEChef Michael Skibitcky, PC III, CCC, CHEChef Jonathon Zearfoss 80 CEC, CCE, CCP, CHEChef Greg Zifchak, CEC, CCE, CCPFinally, for their tireless efforts during every stage of the production of this book, we would especially like to thank Chef Clemens Averbeck, ChefCorky Clark, Lauren Fury, Chef Michael Garnero, Chef Lynne Gigliotti, Jamie Hall, Robert Kristof, Chef John Kowalski, Eleanor Martin, ChefHubert Martini, Chef Michael Pardus, Chef Henry Rapp, Chef John Reilly, Chef Michael Skibitcky, Taliaferro Organic Farms, and Brent Wasser.This book would not have been possible without their keen insight, vast knowledge, and continuous devotion.This book is printed on acid-free paper. 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TX830.G37 2012 641.7'9--dc23 2011021015Printed in China10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1CONTENTSpreface xii123456789101112the professional garde mangercold sauces and cold soupssalads85159201151sandwichessausagecheesecured and smoked foods251terrines, pts, galantines, and roulades365443573299appetizers and hors doeuvrebuffet presentationbasic recipesglossary 667bibliography and recommended reading 680resources 684recipe index 685subject index 700637condiments, crackers, and pickles611RECIPE CONTENTS2 cold sauces and cold soupsvinaigrettesBasic Red Wine Vinaigrette 27Balsamic Vinaigrette 27Trufe Vinaigrette 28Vinaigrette Gourmande 28Lemon Parsley Vinaigrette 29Apple Cider Vinaigrette 29Curry Vinaigrette 30Mustard-Walnut Vinaigrette 30Chipotle-Sherry Vinaigrette 31Roasted Shallot Vinaigrette 32Cherry Tomato Vinaigrette 32Tomato Vinaigrette 33Beet Vinaigrette 33Tangerine-Pineapple Vinaigrette 34Guava-Curry Vinaigrette 34Almond-Fig Vinaigrette 35Grapefruit Emulsion 35coulis, pures, and other saucesArtichoke Caponata 48Eggplant Caponata 49Peperonato 50Piperrada 51Sofrito 51Pesto 52Mint Pesto Sauce 52Sun-Dried Tomato Pesto 53Cocktail Sauce 53Asian-Style Dipping Sauce 54Cumberland Sauce 54Peanut Sauce 55Guacamole 56Baba Ghanoush 57Cervelle de Canut 59Hummus 60Tapenade 60Muhammara 62Hazelnut Romesco Sauce 63Garlic and Parsley Compound Butter 63Red Pepper Coulis 64Huckleberry Sauce 64Apricot-Ancho Barbecue Sauce 65Southwestern Barbecue Sauce 66Aspic 67Chaud-Froid Sauce 67dairy-based and egg-based dressingsBasic Mayonnaise 36Aoli 36Rmoulade Sauce 37Russian Dressing 37Green Goddess Dressing 38Creole Honey-Mustard Sauce 38Creamy Black Pepper Dressing 39Roquefort Dressing 39Ranch Dressing (Reduced-Fat) 40Maytag Blue Cheese Dressing (Reduced-Fat) 40Yogurt Cucumber Sauce 41Tahini Sauce 41soupsGazpacho Andalusia 68Chilled Cucumber Soup with Dill, Leeks, and Shrimp 69Faux Caviar 70Cold Roasted Tomato and Basil Soup 72Cold Carrot Soup 73Vichyssoise 75Chilled Edamame Soup 76Fresh Spring Pea Pure with Mint 78Chilled Cantaloupe and Champagne Soup 79Chilled Morello Cherry Soup 80Caribbean Coconut and Pineapple Bisque 81Chilled Clear Borscht 82salsasSalsa Verde 42Mango-Lime Salsa 43Papaya and Black Bean Salsa 43Salsa Fresca 45Chipotle Pico de Gallo 45Pickled Ginger Salsa 46Grapefruit Salsa 46Smoked Poblano Salsa 47vigarde manger3 saladsgreen saladsParsons Garden Salad 107Spring Herb Salad 108Apple-Endive Salad Wrapped in Prosciutto 109Georgia Peanut Salad 110Baby Spinach, Avocado, and Grapefruit Salad 111Greek Salad with Feta Cheese and Whole Wheat Pita 113Caesar Salad 114Lobster Salad with Grapefruit Emulsion and Tarragon Oil 152Peekytoe Crab Salad with Yuzu Gele 154Warm Salad of Hearty Greens, Blood Oranges, and Tangerine-Pineapple Vinaigrette 155Smoked Duck and Malfatti Salad 156Southern Fried Chicken Salad 1574 sandwicheshot sandwichesMini Bacon-Crusted Scallop Burgers 164Mini Hamburgers 165Mini Mushroom Burgers with Caramelized Onions 166Croque Monsieur 167Soft-Shell Crab Sandwich 168Eggplant and Prosciutto Panini 171Marinated Eggplant Filling 172Reuben Sandwich 173Braised Sauerkraut 173Falafel in Pita Pockets 175Duck Cont with Apples and Brie on a Baguette 176Lentil-Barley Mini Burgers with Fiery Fruit Salsa 178Grilled Chicken Sandwich with Pancetta and Arugula on Focaccia 180Turkey Club Sandwich 181New England Lobster Roll 182Pan Bagnat 185vegetable saladsLobster and Mche with Potato Salad and Vegetable Juice 116Roasted Beet Salad 118Roasted Potato and Shaved Fennel Salad 119Marinated Roasted Pepper Salad 120Hearts of Artichoke Salad 121Haricots Verts with Prosciutto and Gruyre 122Shaved Fennel Salad 123Roasted Corn and Tomato Salad 125Coleslaw 126Marinated Tomato Salad 127potato salads; pasta, grain, andlegume salads; and fruit saladsMediterranean Potato Salad 128German Potato Salad 130Tabbouleh Salad 131Lentil and Walnut Salad 131Israeli Couscous and Heirloom Grains 132Corona Bean Salad with Basil 133Mixed Bean and Grain Salad 134Fattoush 135Fall Panzanella Salad 136Soba Noodle Salad 139Couscous and Curried Vegetable Salad 140Black Bean Salad 142Thai-Style Green Papaya Salad 143cold sandwichesBahn Saigon (Saigon Subs) 186Muffuletta 188Mediterranean Salad Sandwich 189Curried Chicken Salad Open-Faced Sandwich 189tea sandwiches and crostiniBruschetta with Oven-Roasted Tomatoes and Fontina 190Fig and Walnut Bruschetta 191Egg Salad Tea Sandwich 192Smoked Salmon Tea Sandwich 192Roquefort Butter and Red Pear Tea Sandwiches 193Watercress Tea Sandwich 194Cucumber Tea Sandwich 194Marinated Salmon with Fennel, Capers, and Crme Frache on Pumpernickel Bread 196composed salads and warm saladsCrme Frache Chicken Salad 143Salad of Crab and Avocado 144Baked Goat Cheese with Garden Lettuces, Roasted Figs, Pears, and Toasted Almonds 147Avocado, Tomato, and Corn Salad 148Buffalo Chicken Salad 149Corona Bean and Grilled Baby Octopus Salad 150recipe contentsviiRoast Beef, Brie, and Caramelized Onion Sandwiches 197Avocado, Brie, Sprouts, and Country Bacon on Croissant 198Cucumber, Watercress, and Brie with Apricot Chutney on Walnut Bread 199Bacon and Grape Cont 248Pork Rillettes 2496 sausagebasic grind sausagesBreakfast Sausage 268Green Chile Sausage 269Venison Sausage 270Sweet Italian Sausage 271German Bratwurst 272Merguez 273Szechwan-Style Sausage 2745 cured and smoked foodscured foodsBasic Poultry Brine 214Basic Meat Brine (Beef and Pork) 214Basic Seafood Brine 214Basic Fish Brine 215Gravlax 215Norwegian Beet and Horseradish Cure 216Pastrami-Cured Salmon 218cold-smoked and hot-smoked sausagesKassler Liverwurst 275Spicy Lamb Sausage 276Summer Sausage 277Landjger 278Smoked Duck Sausage 280Cajun Andouille Sausage 281Colombian Chorizo 282Frankfurter 283Bologna 284Kielbasa Krakowska 285cold-smoked foodsSmoked Shrimp 219Smoked Salmon 220Fennel-Cured Salmon 222Southwest-Style Smoked Salmon 223Beef Jerky 224Chile-Rubbed Tenderloin 226hot-smoked foodsCitrus-Scented Hot-Smoked Sturgeon 227Hot-Smoked Rainbow Trout 228Smoked Turkey Breast 230Smoked Duck 231Asian-Style Tea-Smoked Moulard Duck Breasts 232Smoked Ham Hocks 233Basic Bacon 234Smoked Pork Loin 235Tasso (Cajun-Style Smoked Pork) 236Smoked Whole Ham 237Smoke-Roasted Sirloin of Beef 238Carolina Barbecued Pork Butt 239poached sausagesFrench Garlic Sausage 286Fine Swiss Bratwurst 287Mortadella 288Chicken and Vegetable Sausage 290Braunschweiger 291Seafood Sausage 293Apple and Blood Sausage 294Duck and Foie Gras Sausage 295Garlic Sausage 296dried sausages and fermented sausagesDried Chorizo 297dried foods and foods preserved in fatPancetta 240Roman-Style Air-Dried Beef 241Cured Sardines 242Duck Cont 244Pecan-Crusted Duck Cont with Bread Pudding and Baby Spinach Salad with Shallot-Garlic Vinaigrette 2467 terrines, pts, galantines, and rouladesterrinesPt Grand-Mre 320Pt de Campagne 321Chicken Liver Pt 322Smrrebrd Leverpostej 323viiigarde mangerDuck and Smoked Ham Terrine 324Smoked Shrimp and Lentil Terrine 325Smoked Salmon and Smoked Salmon Mousse Terrine 329Duck, Pistachios, and Dried Cherry Terrine 330Lobster and Summer Vegetable Terrine 333Shrimp Terrine with Noodle Salad 334Mediterranean Seafood Terrine 336Chicken and Craysh Terrine 337Shellsh Essence 338Venison Terrine 339Chicken and Foie Gras Terrine in Gele 340Seared Lamb, Artichoke, and Mushroom Terrine 342Grilled Portobello Mushroom Terrine 344Mushroom Terrine 347Terrine of Roasted Pheasant 348Poached Chicken Terrine 349Poached Salmon and Lemon Terrine 350Roasted Vegetable and Goat Cheese Terrine 352Mozzarella, Prosciutto, and Roasted Tomato Terrine 353Foie Gras Terrine 354Country-Style Terrine 356Sweetbread and Foie Gras Terrine 3579 appetizers and hors doeuvreappetizersHerbed Goat Cheese in Phyllo Dough 455Beef Carpaccio 456Salsa Cruda di Tonno 458Escabche of Tuna 459Fennel and Chorizo Strudel 460Seafood Strudel with Lobster-Infused Oil 462Pork and Pepper Empanada 464Grilled Vegetable Appetizer with Balsamic Vinaigrette 465Marinated Tomatoes with Mozzarella 466Smoked Breast of Duck Nioise-Style 467Duck Cont with Frise and Roasted Shallot Vinaigrette 468Smoked Duck Tart 469Crispy Braised Pork Belly with French Lentils and Aged Balsamic Vinegar 470Gnocchi di Ricotta 471Shrimp and Avocado Quesadillas 473Shrimp Cakes with Rmoulade Sauce 474Crabmeat Rolls with Infused Pepper Oils, Fried Ginger, and Tamari-Glazed Mushrooms 476Seared Sea Scallops with Artichokes and Peperonato 477Lobster and Trufe Salad 478Foie Gras Roulade with Roasted Beet Salad and Smoked Duck Breast 479Watermelon Gele, Crab, and Avocado Napoleon with Tomato Vinaigrette 481Roasted Shallot Custard 482Sage and Fava Bean Custard with Shaved Asparagus and Meyer Lemon with Crispy Egg 485pts en crouteTurkey Pt en Crote 358galantines and rouladesRoasted Asian Duck Galantine 360Pork Tenderloin Roulade 361Chicken Galantine 3638 cheeseRicotta 386Fromage Blanc 388Crme Frache 389Mascarpone 390Camembert 390Farmhouse Aged Cheese 392Semi-Lactic-Set Fresh Goats Milk Cheese 393Mozzarella 394Tomme-Style Cheese 396Alpine-Style Cheese 398savory sorbets and granitsCucumber Granit 487Celery Granit 487Tomato-Basil Sorbet 489Lime Granit 489hors doeuvreGougres 490Parmesan and Prosciutto Palmiers 492Cheese Sticks 492Proteroles 493Asparagus, Prosciutto, and Parmesan Phyllo Rolls 495Yorkshire Pudding with Duck Ragot 496recipe contentsixDuck Cont and White Bean Hash Cake with Cipollini Onion Marmalade 498Cipollini Onion Marmalade 499Duck Rillettes in Proteroles 500Smoked Salmon Mousse Barquettes 500Creamed Wild Mushroom Tartlets 501BLT Hors dOeuvre 502Steak Tartare Canap 503Barbecued Shrimp and Bacon 503Sun-Dried Tomato and Goat Cheese Tartlets 504Asparagus and Prosciutto Canaps 505Prosciutto and Melon Canap 507Fig and Proscuitto Canaps 508Pancetta-Wrapped Dates Stuffed with Manchego Cheese and Mint 511Blue Cheese Mousse 512Smoked Trout Mousse 512Meatballs with Chili Dipping Sauce 513Beef Negimaki 515Lamb Brochettes with Mint Pesto 516Beef Sat 518Pinchon Moruno (Moorish-Style Shish Kabobs) 519Mini Pizzas 520Pissaladire 522Small Seared Lobster and Vegetable Quesadillas 523Pork Picadillo Empanadas 524Fried Wontons 526Chinese Skewered Bites 528Steamed Wontons with Shrimp 529Shrimp Tempura 530Risotto Croquettes 531Risotto and Pancetta Cakes with Sun-Dried Tomato Pesto 532Mini Stilton Popovers 533Camembert Crisps 533Camembert, Dried Apple, and Fig Phyllo Triangles 534Spanakopita 536Stuffed Grape Leaves 537Wrapped Shrimp with Asian Barbecue Sauce 539Potato Crpes with Crme Frache and Caviar 540Tuna with Capers and Olive Oil 541Pickled Shrimp 541Grapes Rolled in Bleu de Bresse 542Scallop Seviche in Cucumber Cups 543Sushi MakiMaguro (Tuna) Roll 544Inari 544xNigiri 546Sushi Rice 548Hand Vinegar (Tezu) 548Crab Cakes 549Croquetas 550Dim Sum with Chili Sauce 551Chili Sauce 551Mango Curry Shrimp Salad in Wonton Cups 552Shot Glass with Tomato Gele and Craysh 555Tuna Tartare with Avocado Mousse and Chilled Tomato Soup 556Mexican Seafood Cocktail 559Spoon of Quail Eggs and Lobster Medallion in Champagne Emulsion 560Spoon of Kumamoto Oysters and Apple Mint Gele 563Foie Gras Mousse and Rhubarb Compote Barquettes 564Parmesan Crisps and Trufed Goat Cheese 565Hot and Crunchy Chicken Cones 566Mejillones al Estilo de Laredo (Mussels with Olives) 568Gambas al Ajillo (Shrimp with Garlic) 569Spiced Mixed Nuts 569Chili-Roasted Peanuts with Dried Cherries 570Spicy Curried Cashews 570Candied Pecans 571Toasted Almonds 57110 condiments, crackers, and picklesmustardsSouthwestern Spicy Green Chile Mustard 580Heywoods Mustard 580Dried Cranberry Mustard 582Beer Mustard with Caraway Seeds 582Swedish Mustard Sauce 583ketchupsTomato Ketchup 583Yellow Pepper Ketchup 584chutneysSpicy Mango Chutney 584Red Chili Chutney 585Apricot-Cherry Chutney 585Beet Chutney 586garde mangerApple Chutney 587Papaya Chutney 588Quatre pices 639Cajun Spice Blend 639Curry Powder 640Fines Herbes 640Pt Spice 641Hot Italian Sausage Blend 641Herbes de Provence 642relishCranberry Relish 589Dried Apricot Relish 589Curried Onion Relish 590Red Onion Conture 591compotesRhubarb Compote 591Roasted Red Pepper Compote 592Quince Compote 592stocks and brothsVegetable Stock 642Chicken Stock 643Brown Veal Stock 644Shellsh Stock 645Court Bouillon 645other condimentsHarissa 593saucesTomato Sauce 646Anchovy Butter 647Horseradish Butter 647Lobster-Infused Oil 648picklesSweet Pickle Chips 593Half-Sour Pickles 594Pickled Vegetables 594Pickled Grapes or Cherries 595Pickled Red Onions 595Dill Pickles (Fresh-Pack Dill Pickles) 596Pickles 597Pickled Ginger 597Acar Jawa (Javanese Pickled Vegetables) 598Sweet and Sour Onions 600doughsBasic Pt Dough 649Tomato Cilantro Pt Dough 650Saffron Pt Dough 650Sweet Potato Pt Dough 651Tart Dough 651Blitz Puff Pastry 652Pasta Dough 653Focaccia 654Brioche Dough 656Whole Wheat Pita Bread 657chips and crackersAssorted Vegetable Chips 601Pepper Jack and Oregano Crackers 602Sesame Crackers 603Cheddar and Walnut Icebox Crackers 604Potato Crisps 606basic cooking preparationsSimple Syrup 657Roasting Garlic and Shallots 658Oven-Roasted Tomatoes 659Roasting Peppers 660Preparing Artichokes 661Preparing Leeks 662Plumping Dried Fruits and Vegetables 662Toasting Nuts, Seeds, and Spices 663Rendering Fats 664Parmesan Crisp 664Bread Crumbs 665Standard Breading Procedure 665Plain Croutons 666Shelling Cooked Lobster 666oilsBasil Oil (Basic Herb Oil) 607Cinnamon Oil (Basic Spice Oil) 608Tomato Oil 608vinegarsRaspberry and Thyme Vinegar (Basic Flavored Vinegar) 609Rosemary-Garlic Vinegar 60912 basic recipesspice blendsChinese Five-Spice Powder 638Barbecue Spice Mix 638recipe contentsxiP R EFACEin writing the fourth edition ofGarde Manger: The Art and Craft of theCold Kitchen,we have drawn widely from within the contemporarypractice of garde manger, putting those skills and techniques intowords, pictures, and recipes and gathering them into a single volume.this book is geared to meet the needs of students and seasonedpractitioners alike, giving not only the basics of technique but alsothe sound principles that result in the highest quality foods. we haveintroduced new sections in virtually every chapter to encompasssubjects ranging from espumas to fermented sausage and expanded thebook to include more information on ice carving and the proliferationof the artisan american cheese maker.The book begins with a basic overview of the history of the garde manger and the charcuterie.An understanding of how garde manger has moved from its origins to become the vibrant andexciting work it is today is especially relevant when you intend to make this work your career.Todays garde manger has a wide range of career options, some harking directly back to thetraditional methods for preparing sausages, pts, and cheeses. Others look to more contempo-rary ways and may nd their ultimate career path in banquets, catering, or event management.Throughout this book, the work of the garde manger is explored with an eye toward basic meth-ods, safe food handling techniques and procedures, and cutting-edge approaches to combiningavors, colors, and textures in the foods prepared on the cold side of kitchens in restaurants,hotels, banquet halls, and specialty food producers. Beginning with cold sauces and soups, both traditional and newer adaptations of cold emul-sion sauces (such as vinaigrettes and mayonnaise) and cold soups are explained and illustrated.The recipes were selected not only to give a practical means of putting those techniques to usebut also to provide recipes for a cross section of cold sauces and soups found on menus world-wide. Cold sauces and soups are followed by salads. The salad chapter contains an extensiveidentication section and discusses the proper selection of ingredients and their care, as wellas fundamental rules for preparing and presenting salads. Often, the care and handling of saladgreens, herbs, and other salad components is the rst assignment given to novice kitchen work-ers, regardless of whether they have their eyes set on the goal of becoming a line cook on thehot side or pursuing a career dedicated to all that the cold side encompasses. Sandwiches were not always the popular menu item that they are today. However, anincreasing interest in healthful, satisfying, and unusual fare has prompted the garde manger tolook beyond deli and diner specialties to embrace a variety of breads, llings, and garnishes thatmake sandwich making more intriguing and challenging. Methods and practical advice for pre-paring sandwiches for an la carte menu as well as for teas and receptions are provided. Recipesfrom classics to less widely known sandwiches drawn from the global scene are also included.garde mangerxii Sausages, pts, terrines, and cured and smoked foods were once the province of profes-sionals known as charcutires. The foods produced by the charcutires of days gone by are stillfamiliar to usfrom classic andouille sausage and sugar-cured bacon to gravlax and duck cont.These foods are appreciated today for their satisfying avors and textures. Chefs are ndingthat a thorough understanding of the hows and whys of curing and preserving meats, sh, andpoultry is indispensable in the quest for healthier, lighter, and more contemporary approachesto these ancient practices. It is in these foods and their safe, wholesome preparation that thecold kitchen most clearly retains its original intent and purpose. Cheeses have always had a place in the cold kitchen. Like other cured and preserved foods,cheeses are a time-honored practical solution to the problem of keeping a constant supply ofwholesome, nutritious foods on hand throughout the year. They are also the showcase for thetalents and originality of their producers. Local and artisan cheeses are once more in the lime-light, and the garde manger is faced with the challenge of learning to select, maintain, and pres-ent these complex and fascinating foods to an increasingly sophisticated audience. This chapterreviews the basics of cheese making, describes various cheese families, and provides guidelinesfor putting together a cheese selection. In addition, the basics of preparing fresh cheeses as wellas special preparations featuring those cheeses are included. Hors doeuvre and appetizers represent an opportunity for the garde manger to pull to-gether all the various skills and preparations of the entire discipline in a high-impact way. Just ashors doeuvre set the tone for a reception or banquet, so can a well-executed appetizer selectionon a menu set the tone for the entire dining experience. There are a few classic standards toguide you in preparing and presenting appetizers and hors doeuvre. Many of the elements ofthese composed dishes are typically drawn from the chapters that precede this one. A perfectcold sauce provides the counterpoint to a plated appetizer. A ourish of baby greens offers tex-ture and color contrast to a luxurious slice of smoked salmon or pt and so forth. Relishes, compotes, pickles, chutneys, mustards, ketchups, and crackers provide thelittle something that takes the presentation from run of the mill to memorable. These nish-ing touches, offered as condiments and garnishes to bring out all the avors and textures of adish, are gathered together in a chapter that explores another time-honored realm of the coldkitchen: garnishing. In the in-depth chapter about buffet presentation, you will nd informa-tion about developing the concept or theme for a buffet, establishing prices and controllingcosts, using basic design principles for platter layout, and contemporary solutions to setting upa buffet to maximize ow, interactivity, and international avors and themes, as well as manage-ment concerns for buffets. The book concludes with a chapter containing a variety of basic preparations, from stocksand aspics to marinades and spice rubs. The glossary provides thumbnail descriptions of a widerange of cooking terms and tools. The instructions, photographs, and recipes in this book aremeant to help you, whatever your current challenge may be. Perhaps you will choose to usethem as a resource and teaching tool. You may want to use them as a foundation that you canmodify to your particular needs by adjusting the seasoning and garnishes to create signaturedishes, or scaling recipes up or down to match your production needs. One thing is certain: thecontinued appreciation on the part of the diners and chefs everywhere for the foods that areprepared by todays garde manger makes this one of the most fascinating and exciting areas ofthe professional culinary arts.prefacexiiioneTH E PR OFESSIONA LG ARDE MANGERThe term garde manger was originally used to identifya cool food storage area. preserved foods such as hams, sausages,pickles, and cheeses were held there. cold foods were preparedand arranged for banquets there as well. over time, garde mangerhas evolved to mean more than just a storage area or larder. italso indicates the station in a professional kitchen responsiblefor preparing cold foods, the cooks and chefs who preparethese cold foods, and nowadays also an area of specializationin professional culinary arts. members of todays garde mangershare in a long culinary and social tradition, one that stretchesback to well before the dawn of recorded history.the european garde manger traditionAs our ancestors became herdsmen and farm-ers, they developed the practical skills neces-sary to ensure a relatively steady food supply.This meant learning not only to domesticateanimals and raise crops but also how topreserve those foods. The rst preserved shwere most likely produced by accident. Fishwere brined in seawater and left to dry onthe shore, where they either fermented ordried. Meats were hung off the ground andnear the re. This kept them out of the reachof scavenging animals and insects. The smokybath surrounding them darkened, avored,dried, and preserved the meats to keep themfrom spoiling. Historical evidence shows that the Greekshad been producing and consuming saltedsh for many years before passing theirknowledge on to the Romans. In 63 B.C.E.,2the Greek writer Strabo detailed the impor-tance of sh-salting centers in Spain and theexistence of salt producers in the Crimea. Saltcod, made in the same basic way as Strabo de-scribed, is still an important food in cuisinesaround the world. Food preservation skills and the necessaryingredients, including salt, sugar, and spices,were greatly valued. Cities such as modern-day Rome and Salzburg were founded near aready source of salt. As the Romans extendedtheir empire, they conquered lands rich ina variety of resources, including foodstuffs.They brought with them their own recipesand formulas for a variety of preserved meats,sh, and cheeses. As is the way of all suchinvasions, the invaders brought their taste forfamiliar foods from home. But the culinaryexchange was never in one direction. Thegarde mangerAn example of a historical garde manger kitchen.conquering forces also learned to appreciatethe local specialties. The Gauls, in what be-came France, were credited as highly success-ful hog domesticators and became renownedfor their preserved hams and bacon. Theseproducts were regularly sent from Gaul toRome and served at the Romans legendarybanquets. After the fall of the Roman Empire,the great houses of the Church and the nobil-ity throughout Europe kept alive both localfood traditions and those learned from theinvaders. Into the twelfth century, approximately 80to 90 percent of the worlds population stillfell into the category of rural peasants. Thesepeasants worked the nobles lands to raisecrops and farm animals. One of the most im-portant activities of the year occurred at theend of the growing season. Vegetables, fruits,and grains were harvested and preserved bydrying or by placing them into cold storage,along with pickles, jellies, and cheeses. Cows,sheep, and other animals were butchered andthe meat preserved by a variety of means:pickling, salting, brining, curing, drying, pack-ing in fat, or smoking. Once the foods hadbeen prepared, they could be held in storage. The right to collect and keep these foods,as well as to trade and tax them, provided avisible symbol of power, wealth, and rank.During the Middle Ages, this privilegebelonged to kings, dukes, lords, and othernobility, as well as the monasteries andconvents of the Catholic Church. The castlesand manor houses of the nobility each had anarea devoted to food storage. It was typicallylocated in an area below ground level to keepthe foods cool. Garde manger (literally keepto eat) was the term used to identify thisstorage area. It is still used to indicate a larderor pantrya place for cold food storage. Themember of the household staff known as theofcier de la bouche, or steward, was respon-sible for managing this storeroom, dispensingfoods as necessary.the growth of the guildsSome of these special items, such as hams andcheeses, became part of the commerce andtrade between towns and states. Along withlivestock, buildings, servants, and jewels, theywere included as dowries and tributes, as wellas being used as a kind of currency to acquireother goods. Eventually rules were establishedgoverning how merchants prepared andsold these goods and services, to preventmonopolies and pricing abuses. The workitself was clearly dened and assigned to vari-ous groups known as guilds. The guilds de-veloped training systems for their members,taking them from an apprenticeshipto the journeyman stage and nally confer-ring the status of master. Each individualguild was granted a charter, giving it somespecic rights.3one | the professional garde manger By the end of the sixteenth century, therewere approximately two dozen guilds dedi-cated specically to food. Guilds fell into twogroupsthose that provided raw materialsand those that provided prepared foods. Forexample, the guild of charcutiers preparedand sold cooked items made from the pig (theword charcuterie is derived from French rootwords meaning cooked esh). This guildkept the practical work of preserving meatsalive and thriving, making bacons, hams,sausages, and pts. There were numerous strategies to getaround restrictions imposed on any givenguild, and the charcutiers were no exception.One of their tactics led to the developmentof terrines. Charcutiers were not permittedto sell foods baked in pastries, so making andselling pt en crote, forcemeat loaves bakedin pastry, would not have been allowed ac-cording to a strict reading of the charcutierscharter. Rather than stop making pt, thecharcutiers baked the forcemeat in an earth-enware mold (a terrine) instead of pastryand so pt en terrine was created.restaurants and the role ofthe garde mangerThe more essential the food, the more closelyit was regulated. The more lucrative a guildsactivities, the more likely it was that one guildmight be tempted to infringe on another.Each guild fought to protect its individualrights. There were several cases brought be-fore judges to determine if one guilds activi-ties had crossed the line into anothers. When the French Revolution began in1789, the upheaval in noble households wasenormous. Noblemen left France to escapethe guillotine, leaving their household staffsto look out for themselves. The garde manger,as well as chefs and cooks, were householdemployees, and as such did not have a formalguild of their own. These workers found theirway into restaurants in increasing numbersthroughout Europe and the British Isles. At rst there was no widely recognizedstructure for kitchen workers. There were noestablished duties or areas of specialization.It took several years before a serious attemptwas made to organize kitchen workers.Eventually the brigade system, recorded byAuguste Escofer, detailed a logical chain ofcommand that brought order to the unrulyworking arrangements of his day. We still usethe brigade system and refer to the variousstations in the kitchen with the names as-signed by Escofer: saucier, rtisseur, ptis-sier, and garde manger. When the guild system was ofcially abol-ished in 1791, some members of the charcuti-ers guild also joined the ranks of restaurantand hotel kitchen garde manger staffs. Otherscontinued to operate their businesses asbefore. The positions of charcutier and gardemanger have always been closely linked, sincethey are both founded on cold preservedfoods. When the term garde manger is usedtoday, it is often understood to include thework of the charcutier as well.4garde mangertodays garde mangerThe position of garde manger, recast in arestaurant setting, has retained its tradi-tions of preparing a variety of preserved andcold foods. It has also expanded its scopeto include appetizers, hors doeuvre, salads,sandwiches, and the accompanying coldsauces and condiments. The garde mangeris involved in la carte service as well asbanquets, receptions, buffets, and off-sitecatering. The techniques required to prepare pts,terrines, sausages, and fresh cheeses are theparticular domain of the garde manger. How-ever, becoming a skilled garde manger alsomeans learning a broad base of culinary skills,those directly related to handling basic coldfood preparations as well as those requiredto prepare hot foods: roasting, poaching,simmering, and sauting meats, sh, poultry,vegetables, grains, and legumes. It is precisely because the skills andresponsibilities are so broad that many oftodays most highly regarded chefs got theirstart in the garde manger as apprentices orcommis. In addition, recent years have seena rebirth of the more traditional practices ofcharcuterie and cheese making by purveyorswith retail shops and wholesale businesses.Handcrafted foods such as country-stylehams, sausages, pts, and fresh and agedcheeses are increasingly available to both therestaurant chef and the home cook.establishmentsHotels, full-service restaurants, and privateclubs that offer la carte menus may haveone or more people working exclusively inthe area of garde manger, though the specicname of this area varies from place to place.Some operations refer to it as the pantry,others may call it the salad station, still othersthe cold side, and so on. The specic duties ofthis station can include cold sauces and soups,salads, hors doeuvre, and canaps. During la carte service, the garde man-ger typically plates salads and cold appetiz-ers, and may also be responsible for platingdesserts. The breakfast, lunch, and brunchmenus often rely heavily upon the gardemanger as well. Cooks and chefs working in banquet andcatering operations practice all the same basicAn example of a contemporary garde manger kitchen.one | the professional garde manger5cooking skills as the garde manger in an la carte restaurant. However, the approachto work is slightly different. This work is sostimulating and challenging that many profes-sionals choose it as a lifelong career path.Here, where the goal is to produce and serveavorful, attractive food to large numbers ofindividuals simultaneously, you learn to usethe special equipment and cooking tech-niques of volume production. The chef notonly develops a menu but also handles all theplanning necessary to come up with scaledrecipes, accurate and timely orders for foodand other items, and food costs. Presentationis often a signicant component of banquetsand receptions. Decor, appropriate and effec-tive garnishes for plates, platters, and otherfood displays, and concerns for food qual-ity and customer safety are considered. Thenature of large events often involves a certainlevel of risk, and always calls for the ability tothink under pressure and come up with acreative solution to a crisis. To learn moreabout the development and management of abuffet, read Chapter 11, Buffet Presentation. Delicatessens, charcuteries, and shopsselling prepared foods of all types offer yetmore options for the professional gardemanger. Their goods may be sold througha retail shop or exclusively to those in therestaurant trade. Large companies, includinghotel and restaurant chains and food manu-facturers, look to those with strong skills ingarde manger to undertake projects such asthe development of a new line of sauces, con-diments, spice rubs, or salad blends.It is tempting to make a decision based on sal-ary, location, or some similar immediately tan-gible consideration. However, if you considereach job as an investment in your future, it isfar easier to evaluate the long-lasting rewards. Making wise career choices is compli-cated, so take the time to evaluate any careermove. Develop your own plan for the futureas specically as you can so that you candetermine the type of establishment and thetype of work that will set you up to attain thenext level in your career. Look for work environments where eachperson has a stake in getting things done cor-rectly. When all personnel have the opportu-nity to help make decisions and have the toolsthey need to perform at their best, everyonesucceeds. If you want to do a job well, you needto know the quality standards. Objective evalu-ations, constructive criticism, and additionaltraining are part of any good working situation.entry levelWork at the entry level includes cleaningand cutting produce, making vinaigrettesand compound butters, and following simplestandard recipes under supervision. It isimportant to ask questions and follow advice,watch carefully what goes on around you, andsupplement what you see and hear by read-ing. Taste foods that are both familiar andunfamiliar to you, and keep accurate notesand records. Begin compiling a foundation ofknowledge by assembling a library of booksand subscriptions, as well as important con-tact numbers and URLs. Effectively juggling multiple projectsover time is impossible without the abilityto accurately evaluate your time, space, andresources. Since many tasks in the garde man-ger kitchen can span weeks or even months,organizational skills are of utmost im-portance. You can develop these skills byobserving your more organized coworkerstypes of workBoth employers and schools recognize thatformal education on its own is not enough toensure excellence. Garde manger is a practicalart. To succeed, you need to work. Whetheryou work for yourself or for someone else, youmust make choices about your work carefully.6garde mangerand supplementing those observations withreadings. You should also learn the necessary skillsto handle special equipment safely andefciently. Slicers, mixers, grinders, blend-ers, food processors, thermometers, sous videmachines, smokers, sausage stuffers, andsalometers are just a few of the specializedpieces of equipment used in the garde mangerand smokehouse.advanced levelAs your skills improve, you move fromentry-level positions into positions of moreresponsibility. You take on more advancedand challenging work, and your title mayadvance to lead or executive chef. At this levelyou have more responsibility for conceivingnew menu items, recording standard recipes,costing, and developing and maintaining abudget. You will train kitchen and diningroom staff in the proper presentation of newand standard menu items. You are responsiblefor keeping food costs down and improvingquality in all areas of your work. Banquet and buffet chefs developmenusboth standard and customandgo through a process of scaling and costingeach menu item. Stafng and schedulingresponsibilities for the banquet chef includemaintaining and training a relatively largepool of talent, often working directly with thedining-room manager. One special aspect ofthis work involves coordinating with otherservice providers, such as orists, musicians,and photographers. Entrepreneurs develop handcraftedspecialty items that are produced on bothsmall and large scales. Their work focusesmore on the development of a product or lineof products for sale. They must be concernedwith a variety of regulations, certications,and inspections in order to be sure that foodsprepared for sale meet all necessary legalrequirements. Food quality and cost remainas important as ever, and additional businessconcerns accrue. To grow a company fromsomething small and local into somethinglarge, some key factors that should be fo-cused on in order to sell and distribute itemsinclude consistency, timeliness, packaging,labeling, and general appeal.the practice of a professionAny profession has a great many sides, and theculinary vocation is no different. A culinaryprofessional is an artist, a businessperson, ascientist, and a cultural explorer, among otherattributes. Acquiring the skills and knowledgenecessary to succeed in this profession is alifelong journey.a degree or some sort of formal training. Em-ployees look for jobs that offer the opportuni-ty to use the skills and education they alreadypossess and, at the same time, the chance tolearn new skills.formal educationThe increasing emphasis on formal educationgoes hand in hand with the emergence of anumber of programs dedicated exclusivelyto the culinary arts. Employers rely upon thegeneral and specic skills of the craft taughtby these schools to establish a commoneducation and trainingEmployers today look for both experience andeducation when they hire at virtually all levelsabove entry level. At the most prestigiousshops, even entry-level positions may demandone | the professional garde manger7ground of ability. This saves them hours ofon-the-job training. The demand for gradu-ates continues to grow each year, and so hasthe number of programs specializing in theculinary arts. The best education coupleshands-on practice with coursework devotedto product and equipment knowledge. Inaddition, a well-rounded program providesstudy in important aspects of culinary arts asa business: customer service, math, food andmenu costing, team building, and organiza-tional skills. Programs that are recognized in theindustry attract high-quality instructors andoffer opportunities for students to network,join clubs and organizations, compete, and doadvanced studies in an area of specialization.Their graduates receive plenty of hands-onexperience and develop condence andcontrol in all areas of culinary arts. Industryleaders look to graduates of those programs tostaff their companies because they bring withthem a solid foundation. Even garde manger chefs who already haveachieved signicant success in their careerstake advantage of the many opportunitiesoffered through continuing education. Classesthat are tailored to a specic topic give profes-sionals exposure to new techniques and meth-ods and new equipment and ingredients.out. Take the extra minute or two required toreally examine the ingredient and make noteof what it looks like, how it smells or feels, itsshape, and its color. Classes, workshops, or demonstrationsthat offer comparison tastings are excellentlearning opportunities. You can also arrangeyour own blind tastings. This information isinvaluable, whether your responsibility isusing ingredients appropriately or buyingthem to maintain quality and prot. Beyond knowing the color, taste, andcost of an ingredient, however, todays gardemanger chefs typically nd themselves facingan increasing number of special concernsabout the manner in which foods are grown,harvested, and processed. A safe and whole-some food supply is a growing concern ofboth the public and the profession. Topicssuch as sustainable agriculture, bioengineer-ing, genetically modied organisms (GMOs),organics, and the support of local and regionalgrowers all factor into the decisions you andyour business must make.equipment knowledgeIt is true that the foods made by the gardemanger and charcuterie are not beyond thetechnical skill of any good cook, and manyindividuals enjoy making their own sausages,bacon, or smoked trout. However, acquiringthe tools and ingredients, as well as the skillsrequired to use them, can be time-consumingand somewhat expensive. To produce someitems, you need not only the correct equip-ment and ingredients but also the appropriatestorage spaceone you can keep at the cor-rect temperature and humidity. In addition toworking with knives, pots, and pans, the gardemanger must be well versed in the use ofequipment such as meat slicers and grinders,food processors, smokehouses, brining tubsand salometers, and, for some practitioners,ice-carving tools.food knowledgeThe ingredients that the garde manger useson a daily basis run the gamut from themundane and utilitarian, such as calves headsand pigs feet, to the costly and exotic, includ-ing saffron, foie gras, caviar, and trufes. When you know what an ingredient lookslike, tastes like, and acts like, you can use thatknowledge to be more creative, more adapt-able, and more efcient. At rst you may relysolely upon the recipe or formula to tell youwhat to use. As long as everything requiredby the recipe is on hand, things should work8garde manger Learn to use important business tools;computers, the Internet, budgets, accountingsystems, and inventory control systems allplay a role. Many organizations, from the larg-est chains to the smallest one-person cateringcompany, rely upon software systems thatallow them to efciently administer a numberof areas: inventory, purchases, losses, sales,prots, food costs, customer complaints, res-ervations, payroll, schedules, and budgets. Ifyou are not using a system capable of trackingall this information and more, you cannot beas effective as you need to be.communication skillsA well-written rsum can sell you to a poten-tial employer as well as facilitate interactionwith coworkers. Your own mission statement,if properly worded, keeps you on track andhelps you make the best possible careermoves. A precise and specic plan for anevent can keep it on track and on budget. Athorough and fair interview can unearth theperfect employee or business partner. Each ofthese activities demands good communicationskills. Todays garde manger must communi-cate using a wider variety of media than everbefore, from written memos and letters toe-mails, reports, videoconferencing, and in-teractive learning. A good education programaddresses the general and specic communi-cation needs of its students and offerscourses, workshops, and tutoring or labs in awide range of communication skills.take on greater responsibility as you advancetoward your goals. Keeping current with basic skills and newtrends is a lifelong task. Once initial traininghas been completed, continuing educationis equally important, as the industry is con-stantly evolving. Evaluate your career, both as it is rightnow and as you would like it to be in thefuture, and then take the appropriate stepsto keep on top of the latest information inthe areas in which you are most interested.Attend classes and workshops, hone yourskills in specialized areas, keep up with newingredients or equipment, learn new manage-ment strategies, or strengthen your skills inteam building, writing and communication,marketing, and promotion. Some of the courses or seminars youattend can earn you credits (CEUs, or con-tinuing education units). They may benecessary to achieve certain certicationsor advancements. Continuing educationand professional development programs areavailable through a wide range of colleges anduniversities, in both traditional and onlinelearning environments. Not all continuing education occurs ina classroom or over an Internet hookup.Magazines, television programming, newslet-ters, Web sites, government publications, andbooks are all excellent sources. Directed travelprograms can open up a completely new wayof seeing the profession by exposing you to anew cuisine, a new part of the world, a newingredient, or a new contact.continuing educationYour education and your experience combineto form the most important source for yourpersonal professional development. Everycareer choice or move that you make is partof your lifelong education. If you have along-term plan, you can choose jobs that giveyou the opportunity to learn new skills andnetworkingThe old saying Its who you know has a greatdeal of truth. The group of professionals youknow is called a network. A solid network isan indispensable tool for the professional andshould include members of your industry fromas many areas as possible. Knowing someone inone | the professional garde manger9a niche not obviously related to your own canturn up unexpected opportunities. Creating a professional network is a taskthat should be taken seriously. Working withother professionals to share information andknowledge is an important avenue of growth,both professional and personal. Networks canbe formal or informal. The way to begin issimply to introduce yourself to others in youreld. Have business cards with you when yougo out to other restaurants or to trade shows.Write letters to individuals whose work youhave seen and admired. Join professional organizations to expandyour network. Well-run groups typically havea variety of meetings and forums to allowmembers to come in contact with each other.Take advantage of local and national meetingsand conventions to learn more about yourprofession. When you make a good contact, follow upwith a phone call or a note. The communica-tion that you develop with your peers willkeep your own work fresh and contemporary,and an established network makes itmuch easier for you to nd a new job or anemployee.competitionContests and competitions offer you a chanceto really stretch yourself. Professional maga-zines, journals, newsletters, chef's associa-tions, and Web sites have information aboutcontests on the local, national, and interna-tional levels. Whenever you submit your workto the scrutiny of a panel of judges, you learn.Critical review provides you a means to keepimproving in a way that your daily productionwork never can. Practice, research, and thestress of competition exercise your profes-sional muscles, just as competing in a sport-ing event strengthens an athlete. Even if youare not entered in the competition, attendthe judging if you can so that you can benetfrom the experience.the garde manger as businesspersonmanaging physical assetsPhysical assets are the equipment and sup-plies needed to do business. In the case ofa restaurant, these might include food andbeverage inventory, tables, chairs, linens,china, atware, glassware, computers andpoint-of-sale systems, cash registers, kitchenequipment, cleaning supplies, and ware-washing machines. When we talk about man-aging physical assets, we are considering howanything that you must purchase affects yourability to do business well. The rst step in bringing the expensesassociated with your physical assets undercontrol is to know what your expenses actu-ally are. Then you can begin the process ofmaking the adjustments and instituting thecontrol systems that will keep your organiza-tion operating at maximum efciency. One of the biggest expenses for anyrestaurant will always be food and beveragecosts. You or your purchasing agent will haveto work hard to develop and sustain a goodpurchasing system. Because each operationhas different needs, there are no hard-and-fastrules, just principles that you will apply toyour own situation. Maintaining quality is ofcourse the highest priority.managing timeIt may seem that no matter how hard youwork or how much planning you do, the daysarent long enough. Learning new skills, so10garde mangerthat you can make the best possible use of thetime you have, certainly ought to be an ongo-ing part of your career development. If youlook over your operation, you will see wheretime is wasted. In most operations, the topve time-wasters are: (1) no clear prioritiesfor tasks, (2) poor staff training, (3) poor com-munication, (4) poor organization, and (5)missing or inadequate tools. To combat thesetime-wasters, use the following strategies.what was requested, in the appropriate fash-ion, and on time. If you dont invest this timeup front, you may nd yourself squanderingprecious time following your workers around,picking up the slack, and handling work thatshouldnt be taking up your day.learn to communicate clearlyWhether you are training a new employee,introducing a new menu item, or ordering apiece of equipment, clear communication isimportant. Be specic, use the most conciselanguage you can, and be as brief as possiblewithout leaving out necessary information. Iftasks are handled by a number of people, besure to write each task out, from the rst stepto the last. Encourage people to ask questionsif they dont understand. If you need helplearning communication skills, consider tak-ing a workshop or seminar to strengthen anyweak areas.invest time in reviewing dailyoperationsConsider the way you, your coworkers, andyour staff spend the day. Does everyonehave a basic understanding of which tasksare most important? Do they know when tobegin a particular task in order to bring it tocompletion on time? It can be an eye-openingexperience to take a hard look at where theworkday goes. Once you see that you and yourstaff need to walk too far to gather basic itemsor that the person who washes the dishes issitting idle for the rst two hours of the shift,you can take steps to rectify the problem. Youcan try to reorganize storage space. You maydecide to train the dishwasher to do someprep work, or you can rewrite the schedule sothat the shift begins two hours later. Until youare objective about what needs to be done andin what order, you cant begin the process ofsaving time.take steps to create anorderly work environmentIf you have to dig through ve shelves to ndthe lid to the storage container you just putthe stock in, you havent been using your timewisely. Planning work areas carefully, think-ing about all the tools, ingredients, and equip-ment you need for preparation and through-out service, and grouping like activitiestogether are all techniques that can help youorganize your work better. Poor placement oflarge and small tools is a great time-waster.Use adequate, easy-to-access storage space forcommon items such as whips, spoons, ladles,and tongs. Electrical outlets for small equip-ment ought to be within reach of everyone.While you may be forced to work within thelimits of your existing oor plan, be on thelookout for products or storage strategies thatcan turn a bad arrangement into one thatworks smoothly.invest time in training othersIf you expect someone to do a job properly,take enough time to explain the task carefully.Walk yourself and your staff through the jobsthat must be done, and be sure that everyoneunderstands how to do the work, where tond necessary items, how far each personsresponsibility extends, and what to do in casea question or emergency comes up. Give yourstaff the quality standards they need to evalu-ate the job and determine if they have doneone | the professional garde manger11purchase, replace, andmaintain all necessary toolsA well-equipped kitchen will have enoughof all the tools necessary to prepare everyitem on the menu. If you cant purchase newequipment, then think about restructuringthe menu to even out the workload. If youcant remove a menu item, then invest in thetools you need to prevent a slowdown duringservice.managing informationThe garde manger is part of the much largerworld. Read about all areas that might affectyour career and your industry: business andeconomics, arts and entertainment, societyand politics. Popular culture has a curiousway of inuencing your work. Your custom-ers and clients do not live in a vacuum, andneither should you. There are numerous print and onlinesources devoted to the specics of new or un-usual ingredients, unfamiliar dishes or equip-ment, and more. Information gathering can be-come a full-time task on its own. To make useof the information available, you must be ableto analyze and evaluate carefully to sift out theimportant material from useless data and useall sorts of media and technology effectively. Learn more about the professions his-tory, not just because it is interesting but alsobecause it gives relevance and ballast to thedecisions you make.managing peopleRestaurant operations rely directly on thework and dedication of a number of people,from executives and administrators to linecooks, wait staff, and maintenance and clean-ing staff. No matter how large or small yourstaff may be, the ability to engage all yourworkers in a team effort is one of the majorfactors in determining whether you will suc-ceed or not. Most people prefer to work in an environ-ment where everyone can make a distinctand measurable contribution. The rst task increating such an environment is a properlywritten job description. Training is anotherkey component. To do a job well, theemployee needs to know the quality stan-dards and have those standards consistentlyreinforced with clear, objective evaluations,feedback, constructive criticism, and, whennecessary, additional training or disciplinarymeasures. Everyone has the right to work in an en-vironment that is free from physical hazards.This means that, as an employer, you mustprovide a workspace that is well lit, properlyventilated, and free from obvious dangers,such as improperly maintained equipment.Employees must have access to potable waterand bathroom facilities. Beyond this bareminimum, you may offer a locker room, alaundry facility that provides clean uniformsand aprons, or other such amenities. Workers compensation, unemployment in-surance, and disability insurance are also yourresponsibility. You are required to make alllegal deductions from an employees paycheckand to report all earnings properly to state andfederal agencies. Liability insurance (to coverany harm to your facility, employees, or guests)must be kept up to date and at adequate levels. Employers may choose to offer additionalforms of assistance as part of an employee ben-ets package. Life insurance, medical and dentalinsurance, assistance with such things as depen-dent care, adult literacy training, and enrollmentin and support for those enrolled in substanceabuse programs are examples of the support anemployer can provide for employees.12garde mangerkey qualities of aprofessionalEvery member of a profession is responsiblefor the professions image. Those who havemade the greatest impact in their eldsknow that the cardinal virtues of the culinaryprofession are an open and inquiring mind,an appreciation of and dedication to qualitywherever it is found, and a sense of responsi-bility. Success also depends on several charac-ter traits, some of which are inherent, someof which are diligently cultivated throughouta career.a sense of responsibilityA culinary professionals responsibility isfour-fold: to him- or herself, to coworkers, tothe restaurant, and to the guest. This shouldinclude respecting not just the customer andhis or her needs but also staff, food, equip-ment, and the facility itself. Waste, reckless-ness, disregard for others, and misuse orabuse of any commodity are unacceptable.Abusive language, harassment, ethnic slurs,and profanity do not have a place in the pro-fessional kitchen. When employees feel thattheir needs are given due consideration, theirself-esteem will increase and their attitudetoward the establishment will improve;both will increase productivity and reduceabsenteeism.a commitment to serviceThe food-service industry is predicated onservice; therefore, a culinary professionalshould never lose sight of what that wordimplies. Good service includes (but is notlimited to) providing quality food that isproperly and safely cooked, appropriately sea-soned, and attractively presented in a pleasantenvironmentin short, making the customerhappy. The degree to which an operation canoffer satisfaction in these areas is the degreeto which it will succeed in providing good(and, ideally, excellent) service. The customermust always come rst.judgmentAlthough it is not easy to learn, good judg-ment is a prerequisite for becoming a profes-sional. An ability to judge what is right andappropriate is acquired throughout a lifetimeof experience. Good judgment is never com-pletely mastered; rather, it is a goal towardwhich one should continually strive.one | the professional garde manger13twoCOLD SAUCE SANDCO LD SOUPSSauces and soups are among the first true tests of a chefsskill. for the garde manger, the ability to produce perfectlybalanced vinaigrettes, subtly flavored and creamy mayonnaise-based sauces, a wide range of special sauces, and cold soups of allvarieties is a skill that should be constantly honed throughout acareer.cold saucesThe successful pairing of a sauce with any fooddemonstrates an understanding of the food andan ability to judge and evaluate a dishs avors,textures, and colors. Evaluating why somecombinations work well while others are lesssuccessful offers valuable lessons in composinga dish. What does the sauce bring to the dish?How does it function in the total composition?Does it contrast with or lift up a dish? Howdoes it taste? Sauces are not just an after-thought. They add avor, color, texture, sheen,and moisture to a dish. In the cold kitchen, thechefs sauce repertoire includes:cold emulsion saucesVinaigrettes and mayonnaise are made bycombining two ingredients that would nototherwise blend homogeneously. In order tounderstand how these sauces are prepared,we will rst discuss what an emulsion is andhow it is formed. An emulsion consists of two phases, thedispersed phase and the continuous phase.When making vinaigrette, for example, the dis-persed phase is the oil, meaning that the oil hasbeen handled in such a way that it is brokenup into very small droplets. Each oil droplet issuspended throughout the continuous phase,in this case the vinegar. Temporary emulsions, such as vinaigrettes,form quickly and require only the mechanicalaction of whipping, shaking, or stirring. To makean emulsion stable enough to keep the oil insuspension, additional ingredients known as sta-bilizers are necessary. Stabilizers used to makecold sauces include mustard, honey, and dryspices. Starches such as those in garlic or modi-ed starches such as cornstarch or arrowrootare also used. These stabilizers are able to attractand hold both the oil and liquid in suspensionso that the mixture does not separate into itstwo phases. In some instances, the molecules ofthe emulsiers surround the molecules in theCold emulsion sauces: vinaigrettesand mayonnaiseDairy-based saucesContemporary saucesSalsasCoulis and puresCoating saucesMiscellaneous cold sauces such ashorseradish and mignonette16garde mangerdispersed phase and prevent them from joiningback together again. Stable emulsions, such as mayonnaise, aremade by very carefully controlling the rate atwhich the oil is added to the egg yolks. Eggyolks provide a special emulsier known aslecithin that holds the oil droplets in suspen-sion. The oil is added very gradually at rstso that the droplets can be made extremelyne. The more oil that is added to the yolks,the thicker the sauce will become. If the oilis added too rapidly, the emulsion cannotstart to form properly. And if the emulsionbecomes too thick early in the mixing process,the full amount of oil cannot be added unlessthe sauce is thinned with a little water or anacid such as vinegar or lemon juice.vinaigrettesVinaigrettes are closely associated with greensalads, but they are also used in other appli-cations: as a marinade for grilled or broiledfoods, and to dress salads made from pastasand vegetables. Nowadays they are evenserved warm. It is interesting to note thatwhile oil is the largest component by volumeand weight of a vinaigrette, the sauce is mostoften named for the acidred wine vinai-grette, balsamic vinaigrette, lemon vinai-grette, or tomato vinaigrette. The avor of theacid dominates that of the oil. When an oilhas a distinctive enough avor, however, thevinaigrette may be called by the oils name.MAKING A BASIC VINAIGRETTE The chal-1. An oil-in-water emulsion1(left) disperses oil dropletsin water, while a water-in-oil emulsion (right)disperses water dropletsin oil. Examples of an oil-in-water emulsion includemayonnaise and vinaigrette,while an example of a water-in-oil emulsion is butter.2. Temporary emulsions are2created through mechanicalagitation, which breaksmolecules up into smaller sizesand disperses them throughoutthe continuous phase. If theemulsion is left to sit, however,its lack of stabilizer will causeit to separate eventually.3. Emulsiers stabilizean emulsion by creating anetwork, usually of proteinsor starch, that keeps thedispersed molecules fromcoming into contact witheach other and combininginto larger molecules, whichwould break the emulsion.3lenge of making a good vinaigrette lies inachieving what chefs refer to as balance, apoint at which the acidity of the vinegar orjuice is tempered but not dominated by therichness of the oil. Many chefs know the standard vinaigretteratio of 3 parts oil to 1 part acid. This works wellas a starting point, but it is important to tasteand evaluate the vinaigrette whenever a changeis made in the type of oil, acid, or specic avor-ing ingredients. Some vinaigrette formulas maycall either for a quantity of water to dilute veryacidic vinegars or for a bit of sugar to soften theacidity instead of additional oil. A basic vinaigrette is a temporary emulsion,made by blending the measured ingredientsuntil they form a homogeneous sauce. Thesauce remains an emulsion for only a short time,quickly separating back into oil and vinegaragain. To keep the sauce well balanced, stir orwhisk the vinaigrette each time it is served. The best way to check for avor and bal-ance in a vinaigrette is to dip a piece of lettuceinto it, shake off the excess, and then evaluatethe taste of the sauce on the lettuce.two | cold sauces and cold soups17MAKING AN EMULSIFIED VINAIGRETTEThe ratio for an emulsied vinaigrette is thesame as for a basic vinaigrette. To make thesesauces, egg yolks, mustard, garlic, fruit or veg-etable pures, or glace de viande is includedin the formula, both to add avor and to helpstabilize the sauce.herbs to the vinaigrette just before itis served.2. Add the oil gradually. Slowly add afew droplets of oil at a time into thebowl, whisking constantly. Once theemulsion has started to form, pouror ladle the oil in a ne stream whilewhisking the sauce. Another way tocreate a stable vinaigrette is to use ablender, immersion blender, standingmixer with a whip, or food processor.Vinaigrettes made this way can holdtheir emulsion longer than those thatare simply whisked together.1.Combine the vinegar and all of theseasoning ingredients at roomtemperature. Add the salt, pepper,herbs, mustard, or other ingredientsto the vinegar to be sure that theyare evenly dispersed throughoutthe sauce. Note: Fresh herbs givevinaigrettes a wonderful avor andcolor. However, if they are added toofar in advance, the vinegar can startto discolor them and break down theirlively avors. When preparing a largebatch of vinaigrette intended to lastthrough several service periods, itmay be preferable to add the fresh3.Add any garnish and check theseasonings at this point. Fresh ordried fruits and vegetables, crumbledcheese, or other garnishes can be added,if desired. Review the previous sectionfor information about how to check theseasoning and serve this sauce.1. Begin the vinaigretteby incorporating theemulsier, in thiscase mustard, intothe vinegar base.2. Whisking steadily,stream the oil intothe vinegar base untilfully incorporated.1218garde mangerREDUCED-FAT VINAIGRETTES The totalamount of oil in a vinaigrette can be greatlyreduced by replacing up to two-thirds of theoil with a lightly thickened stock or juice. Addenough diluted arrowroot to simmering stockor juice so that it will mimic the consistencyof a salad oil once cooled. Pures of fruits and vegetables can alsobe used in place of part of a vinaigrettes oil.Naturally thick pures such as tomato or redpepper pures may not need to be thickenedfurther. Tomato Vinaigrette (page 33) is onesuch vinaigrette. Store reduced-fat vinaigrettesas you would basic or emulsied vinaigrettesand follow the appropriate steps for recombin-ing and adjusting seasoning before service.may be used to prepare a mayonnaise,including lemon juice, wine vinegar, orcider vinegars. The acid is used both togive the sauce avor and, along withwater, to adjust its consistency. Tosuccessfully form a mayonnaise, it isessential that all ingredients have thesame temperature.2. Blend the yolks with a bit of water.Whisk the yolks and water together toloosen the eggs and make it easier forthem to absorb the oil. You may alsowish to include lemon juice or vinegarat this point, if your formula calls forthose ingredients.3.mayonnaiseMayonnaise and dressings made with mayon-naise as a base can be used to dress salads, as adip or spread, and to produce a coating sauce.This sauce is made by combining egg yolkswith oil so that a stable emulsion forms. Unlikevinaigrettes, this cold sauce should not break asit sits. Mayonnaise is a sauce that requires skilland nesse to prepare correctly. It also requirescareful handling to avoid contamination.1.Select and prepare the ingredientsfor the mayonnaise. Classic recipesfor mayonnaise-style dressingcall for 6 to 8 oz/180 to 240 mLoil to each egg yolk. To avoid anypossible food-borne illness (such assalmonella), professional chefs shoulduse pasteurized egg yolks. Sincemayonnaise is often intended as a basesauce that can be used for a variety ofpurposes, it is usually best to choosean oil that does not have a pronouncedavor of its own. There are exceptionsto this general rule. For example, amayonnaise made with extra-virgin oliveoil or a nut oil would be appropriate toserve as a dip with a platter of grilledvegetables or crudits. Various acidsAdd the oil a little at a time, whiskingin the oil completely. It is important toproceed cautiously when the oil is rstbeing added. The oil must be whippedinto the egg yolks so that it is brokenup into very ne droplets. This stageis where the emulsion rst starts toform. If the oil is added too quickly, thedroplets will be too large to blend intothe yolks, and the sauce will appearbroken. Adding the oil slowly allowseggs to absorb the oil properly, andthe sauce will start to thicken. Onceabout one-fourth to one-third of theoil has been properly blended into theegg mixture, you may start to increasethe amount you add. When preparinga mayonnaise in a mixer, add the oil ina thin stream as the machine runs. It isstill true that the oil should be addedmore slowly at the beginning than atthe end.Adjust the thickness and avor ofthe sauce by adding a bit more acidor water as you incorporate the oil.Additional lemon juice, or vinegar, or alittle water is added once the eggs haveabsorbed enough of the oil to becomevery thick. If this step is neglected, thesauce will become too thick to absorb4.two | cold sauces and cold soups19any more oil. Continue adding oil untilthe amount specied in the recipe hasbeen added. A nished mayonnaiseshould be thick enough to hold softpeaks. However, depending upon itsintended use, you may wish to thin thesauce with additional water to make itmore pourable.WHEN MAYONNAISE BREAKS Mayonnaiseand similarly prepared emulsied dressingsmay break for a number of reasons: the oilwas added too rapidly for the egg yolk to ab-sorb it, the sauce was allowed to become toothick, or the sauce became either too cold ortoo warm as it was being prepared. A brokenmayonnaise can be corrected as follows:5.Add any additional avoring orgarnish ingredients at the pointindicated in the recipe. Aoli (page36), a garlic-avored mayonnaise,calls for a good quantity of garlic tobe included from the earliest stagesof mixing. Other ingredients, suchas vegetable pures or pastes, freshherbs, chopped pickles, and so forth,may be blended into the sauce oncethe oil is fully incorporated. GreenMayonnaise (Sauce Verte) (page 36)and Rmoulade Sauce (page 37) aretwo such variations.1.Beat a pasteurized egg yolk untilfoamy.mayonnaise, whisking constantly. Themayonnaise should recombine into ahomogeneous sauce. Be sure to tasteand season it appropriately beforeserving.2. Gradually incorporate the brokenSTORING MAYONNAISE Mayonnaise shouldbe kept refrigerated at all times once it is pre-pared. Transfer it to a storage container, coverit carefully, and label it with a date. Beforeusing mayonnaise that has been stored, stir itgently and check the seasoning carefully. If thesauce needs to be thinned, add a bit of water.1. During the beginningstages of the emulsion,the oil must be addedslowly and steadilyto properly dispersethe fat in the liquid.2. When nished, themayonnaise should bethick and hold a soft peak.1garde manger220dairy-based saucesDairy-based sauces are used as salad dress-ings or dips. They are made from soft cheesessuch as quark, mascarpone, or cream cheese;cultured milks such as sour cream, crmefrache, or buttermilk; cream; or low- orreduced-fat versions of ricotta, sour cream, orcottage cheese. These dressings are generallywhite or ivory, so they can take on the color ofpures or coulis of herbs, fruits, or vegetables. Some typical additions to dairy-based dress-ings include cheeses (especially blue cheese,Parmesan, or feta cheese), fresh lemon, blackpepper, and minced or pured herbs. Diced,minced, or grated vegetables, pickles, capers,or olives add texture as well as avor. Creamy sauces can be prepared in a rangeof textures, from a relatively stiff sauce to serveas a dip or spread to a pourable sauce thateasily dresses a green salad. For a very light,almost mousselike texture, whipped cream canbe folded into the sauce at the last moment.coulis and puresThe classical denition of a coulis, written byEscofer in Le Guide Culinaire, states that acoulis is the well reduced, highly concentratedessential avours of a food, in either pure orliquid form. In the modern cold kitchen, coulis aremade by pureing raw or cooked fruits or veg-etables to a saucelike consistency. The termpure is frequently used interchangeably withcoulis. The texture of these sauces can rangefrom very light and smooth to coarse. Theymay be served as is, or they may be adjustedby adding stock, wine, an infusion, oil, orcream. Coulis or pures may begin to weep a clearliquid as they sit. To prevent this, bring thesauce to a simmer and add a small amount ofdiluted arrowroot. This is a helpful practicewhenever advance plating is required, asmight be the case for a banquet or reception.salsasSalsas are typically made from uncookedfruits or vegetables. They often include anacid, such as citrus juice, vinegar, or wine, toadd a sharp avor. Spices, chiles, and herbsare sometimes added to these sauces to givethem a potent avor and a higher-than-aver-age level of heat. Sauces made from vegetables and fruitshave become increasingly popular. Both fresh(or raw) and cooked versions of salsas, chut-neys, relishes, and compotes are found in cui-sines from Mexico to India. While there willalways be distinctions made by acionadosabout when the term salsa is correctly usedversus chutney, relish, or even compoteinpractical terms, the differences between themhave more to do with their country or cuisineof origin than preparation method. Therecipes for a variety of chutneys, relishes, andcompotes can be found in Chapter 10.coating sauces: aspicAlthough these sauces are not as popular asthey once were, they still have several applica-tions for the garde manger. They can be usedto coat canaps and other hors doeuvres, toprepare platters for display and service, and tocoat various timbales and other appetizers. Chaud-froids are made by adding gelatinto a warm sauce, such as demi-glace, bcha-mel, or velout. Techniques for working withgelatin are illustrated on page 24. The termchaud-froid means hot and cold, a name thatreects the way in which the sauce is pre-pared for use. It is warmed over a hot waterbath to the point at which it ows easily.Next, it is cooled over an ice water bath tothe point at which the gelatin has thickenedand the sauce starts to cling to the sides of thebowl. The sauce is then used to coat a varietyof items, from platters to ballotines. A quicklyprepared substitute for chaud-froid is madeby thickening heavy cream and/or sour cream21two | cold sauces and cold soupswith an appropriate amount of gelatin toproduce a coating consistency. Clear coating sauces, known as aspics, aremade by clarifying stocks, juices, or essencesand adding enough gelatin to achieve the de-sired strength. After making the aspic, temperthe mixture by stirring it constantly over anice bath with a rubber spatula to cool it tothe proper temperature. Once it just beginsto thicken, ladle or pour the aspic over thedesired application. Aspic is one of the moreversatile coating sauces used in garde manger.It can be used to seal a platter, giving it an al-most mirror-like nish. To add to the presen-tation of the platter, items such as herb leaves,grape slices, or vegetables cut into a varietyof shapes can be inlaid into the aspic beforeit congeals. Aspic can be cut into shapes andused as a avorful, decorative garnish. It isalso utilized frequently to seal an edible item,such as pt en crote, both after it is baked,to ll in the air gaps, and after it is sliced.ratios for aspicRATIO PER GALLONRATIO PER PINTGEL STRENGTHPOSSIBLE USES2 oz/57 g14 oz/7 gDelicate gelWhen slicing is not required; individualportions of meat, vegetable, or shbound by gelatin; jellied consommsEdible chaud-froid; coating individualitemsWhen product is to be sliced; lling pten crote, head cheeseCoating platters with underlayment forfood shows or competitionsWhen product must retain shape afterunmolding; production of a mousse4 oz/113 g12 oz/14 gCoating gel6 to 8 oz/170 to 227 g1 oz/28 gSliceable gel10 to 12 oz/284 to 340 g114 to 112oz/35 to 43 g2 oz/57 gFirm gel16 oz/454 gMousse strength22garde manger1. Before using aspic, itmust be cooled slightlyover an ice water bath tothicken the solution.2. Two layers of aspic canbe used to seal a garnishinto a platter, preparingit for presentation.3. If cast and allowed toset, aspic can be portionedinto an edible garnish.4. Edible items, such asthese slices of pt encrote, can be sealed withaspic before serving, givingthem a glossy sheen.1234two | cold sauces and cold soups231. Before use, powderedgelatin must be bloomedin cold water.2. Powdered gelatin isproperly bloomed onceall of the granules haveabsorbed the liquid,causing them to swell andbecome translucent.12working with powderedgelatinIn order to achieve the correct results whenpreparing aspic or any other item includinggelatin, you must be able to handle gelatinproperly and incorporate it correctly. Ratiosfor producing aspic in a variety of strengthscan be found in the table on page 22.4.1.Weigh the gelatin carefully.Granulated or powdered gelatin,gelatin sheets (see information onpage 25), and instant gelatin can beused interchangeably. Measure theliquid.evenly over a room temperatureliquid. If the liquid is warm or hot, thegelatin cannot soften properly beforemelting. Scattering the gelatin over theliquids surface prevents the gelatinfrom forming clumps.2. Sprinkle or rain the gelatin powder5.Melt the gelatin enough to dissolvethe granules. Bloomed gelatin (orgelatin solution) can be dissolved in oneof two ways: add it directly to a warmliquid (100 to 110F/38 to 43C),or warm the mixture over a hot waterbath. As the softened gelatin warms,the mixture will clear and becomeliquid enough to pour easily. Combinethe gelatin thoroughly with the baseliquid to be sure that it gels evenly.Note: In some kitchens, chefs prefer tohave some of this bloomed softenedgelatin on hand at all times, and referto it as a gelatin solution. This mixturecan be held for several weeks and usedas required to prepare aspics or otherjellied sauces or soups.Test the gelatin strength. To test thestrength of both aspics and reducedstocks, chill a plate in the freezer.Ladle a small amount of the aspic orreduced stock on the plate, and chillin the refrigerator until it gels. Adjustthe strength by rewarming the aspicand then adding more gelatin or morebase liquid as necessary.3.Bloom the gelatin. As the gelatinabsorbs the liquid, each granulebecomes enlarged as the proteinsdenature; this is known as blooming.24garde mangerworking with sheet gelatinAnother form of gelatin that is becomingreadily available to professional kitchens issheet gelatin. After extraction and drying,the gelatin is formed into thin sheets, whichyou place in large volumes of cool water tobloom. Sheet gelatin is sold in different bloomstrengths, or gauges, but as there is no univer-sal standard of identication, the strengths ofdifferent gauges may vary depending on themanufacturer. One advantage of sheet gelatinis that it introduces less air into the base andso the nished product is somewhat clearerthan one that uses powdered gelatin. Theprocess for using sheet gelatin is similar tothat for powdered gelatin in that you mustrst bloom and then melt the gelatin. Placethe sheets in a large volume of water. Whensheet gelatin is fully bloomed, it should softendramatically. The sheet gelatin can then beadded directly to the base and melted, asopposed to powdered gelatin, which mustbe bloomed in a measured amount of waterbefore it is melted.miscellaneous saucesIn addition to the sauces discussed above, thegarde manger may be called on to preparesome special sauces that do not necessarily tinto a single category. Cocktail, Cumberland,Oxford, mint, and horseradish sauces areincluded in the basic repertoire of the coldkitchen. Dipping sauces, such as those servedwith sat and tempura, are also consideredcold sauces. Consult specic recipes for in-formation about preparing and serving thesesauces.1. Before use, bloom sheetgelatin in enough cool waterto completely submerge it.2. Once properly bloomed,sheet gelatin becomeshydrated and takes on amore plastic consistency.12two | cold sauces and cold soups25cold soupsSoups prepared by the garde manger aregenerally served chilled. They are found asrst-course offerings, appetizer courses, horsdoeuvre, or desserts. They may be presented ina variety of waysin chilled stemware, in tra-ditional soup plates or cups, or in tiny tastingportions served at stand-up receptions. Coldsoups refresh the palate, regardless of when inthe meal they are served. Whenever you intendto serve any food chilled, be sure to taste itcarefully at the correct service temperature.Remember to allow soups sufcient time to de-velop their avor; some soups are at their bestand ready to serve as soon as they are prepared,while others will develop a more complex andsatisfying avor if they are allowed to mel-low (under refrigeration) for several hours orovernight. Cold soups may be prepared in one ofthree ways, depending on their type. Veg-etable or fruit soups are made by pureing orchopping fruits and vegetables nely enoughto form a souplike consistency; cream soupsare made from a thickened base such as avelout, bchamel, or potato pure; and clearsoups are made by clarifying and fortifying arich broth and, if desired, thickening the basewith a little gelatin.buttermilk, garnish items, or granits, may alsobe included in the soup for additional interest.cream-style soupsCold cream soups should have the samevelvety smooth texture as any hot creamsoup. Taste and evaluate the avor carefully,and give equal attention to the texture andconsistency. Cold soups may thicken as theycool, so be certain that you have adjusted theconsistency to make a soup that is creamy butnot stiff. Good cold soups should not leaveyour mouth feeling coated with fat. Vichyssoise is a classic example of acream-style soup. It is made by preparing apure of potato and leek. Other cold soups aremade by preparing a velout. They are typi-cally nished by adding chilled cream, yogurt,or crme frache. The Chilled Edamame Soupon page 76 is a good example.clear cold soupsClear soups must have a deep and satisfyingavor in order to be successful. The body ofthe soup can be adjusted by adding gelatin oranother gelling agent, if you prefer to serve itjellied. (To review the information about work-ing with gelatin, see pages 2425.) Not all clearsoups are jellied, however, and some of therecipes included here are based on a deliciousbroth garnished or left plain according to yourintended presentation. Clear cold soups require a rich, full-bodied,claried broth or juice. Infusions, essences, orwell-strained pures are often used to createthe special character of the soup. Traditionalclear cold soups, such as jellied consomms,are made by adding enough bloomed and dis-solved gelatin to the soup to make it gel. Jelliedclear soups should barely hold their shape andshould melt in the mouth instantly.vegetable and fruit soupsCold vegetable and fruit soups are popularhot-weather offerings around the world.Many cuisines have special cold soups thatfeature a seasonal food, such as cherries, mel-ons, tomatoes, peppers, or cucumbers. Vegetable or fruit soups range in texturefrom the appealingly coarse texture of a gaz-pacho to the velvety smoothness of a chilledmelon soup. A broth or juice is often addedto the fruits or vegetables to loosen the pureenough to create a good soup consistency.Other ingredients, such as cream, milk,26garde mangerbasic red wine vinaigretteyield: 32 fl oz/960 mL8 oz/240 mL red wine vinegar2 tsp/10 g mustard (optional)2 shallots, minced16 oz/480 mL mild olive oil or canola oil8 oz/240 mL extra-virgin olive oil or canola oil2 tsp/8 g sugar, honey, or agave nectar (optional)2 tsp/6.50 g salt, or as needed12 tsp/1 g coarse-ground black pepper, or as needed3 tbsp/9 g minced herbs, such as chives,parsley, or tarragon (optional)1. Combine the vinegar, mustard if desired, and shallots.2. Whisk in the oils gradually.3. Season with sugar, if desired, salt, and pepper. Add the fresh herbs if desired.Serve immediately or cover and refrigerate until needed.CHEF'S NOTE This vinaigrette can easily be adapted for a variety of situations by substituting adifferent avored vinegar or oil for the red wine vinegar or canola oil.balsamic vinaigretteyield: 32 fl oz/960 mL4 oz/120 mL red wine vinegar4 oz/120 mL balsamic vinegar2 tsp/10 g mustard (optional)16 oz/480 mL mild olive oil or canola oil8 oz/240 mL extra-virgin olive oil or canola oil2 tsp/6.50 g salt12 tsp/1 g ground black pepper3 tbsp/9 g minced herbs, such as chives,parsley, or tarragon (optional)1. Combine the vinegars and mustard if desired.2. Whisk in the oils gradually.3. Season with salt and pepper. Add the fresh herbs if desired. Serve immedi-ately or cover and refrigerate until needed.VARIATION PORT BALSAMIC VINAIGRETTE: Substitute 2 oz/60 mL ruby port for the red winevinegar.two | cold sauces and cold soups27trufe vinaigretteyield: 32 fl oz/960 mL12 oz/360 mL red wine vinegar4 oz/120 mL balsamic vinegar2 oz/60 mL water2 tsp/10 g Dijon mustard2 shallots, minced9 oz/270 mL mild olive oil5 oz/150 mL extra-virgin olive oil3 tbsp/45 mL trufe oil2 tsp/8 g sugar2 tsp/6.50 g salt12 tsp/1 g ground black pepper1 black or white trufe, chopped (optional)1. Mix together the vinegars, water, mustard, and shallots.2. Whisk in the oils gradually.3. Season with sugar, salt, and pepper. Add the trufes just before serving ifdesired. Serve immediately or cover and refrigerate until needed.CHEF'S NOTE Trufe oil is very potent, and this vinaigrette should be tasted frequently as it ismade so that the amount of trufe oil can be adjusted as needed.vinaigrette gourmandeyield: 32 fl oz/960 mL4 oz/120 mL sherry vinegar3 oz/90 mL lemon juice2 tsp/6.50 g salt12 tsp/1 g coarse-ground black pepper16 oz/480 mL olive oil10 oz/300 mL extra-virgin olive oil1 oz/28 g minced Fines Herbes (page 640)1. Combine vinegar and lemon juice with salt and pepper.2. Whisk in the oils gradually.3. Add the herbs; adjust seasoning with salt and pepper, if necessary. Serveimmediately or cover and refrigerate until needed.VARIATION WALNUT AND RED WINE VINAIGRETTE: Substitute walnut oil for the olive oils and redwine vinegar for the sherry vinegar. Substitute parsley and chives for Fines Herbes (page 640).28garde mangerlemon parsley vinaigretteyield: 32 fl oz/960 mL6 oz/180 mL lemon juice2 oz/60 mL Champagne vinegar2 tsp/28 g Dijon mustard12 oz/14 g minced garlic1 14 oz/35 g minced shallotsSalt, as neededCoarse-ground black pepper, as needed1 tbsp/6 g fennel seeds, crushed1 12 tsp/3 g red pepper akes8 oz/240 mL olive oil4 oz/120 mL extra-virgin olive oil1 oz/28 g chopped at-leaf parsley12 oz/14 g chopped oregano1. Combine the lemon juice, vinegar, mustard, garlic, shallots, salt, pepper,fennel seeds, and red pepper akes.2. Whisk in the oils and reserve.3. Whisk in the parsley and oregano just before service. Adjust seasoning with saltand pepper, if necessary. Serve immediately or cover and refrigerate until needed.CHEF'S NOTE This versatile dressing can be used not only on green salads but also as a dressingfor grain or legume salads. The spices can be adapted to suit a variety of regional avor proles.apple cider vinaigretteyield: 32 fl oz/960 mL16 oz/480 mL apple cider6 oz/180 mL cider vinegar1 Granny Smith apple, peeled,cored, and cut into brunoise16 oz/480 mL vegetable oil8 oz/240 mL extra-virgin olive oil2 tbsp/6 g chopped tarragon2 tsp/6.50 g salt14 tsp/0.50 g ground white pepper12 tsp/2 g sugar1. Reduce the cider i